An Expedition to Mount St. Elias, AlaskaRussell, Israel C. (Cook)
History
An Expedition to Mount St. Elias, Alaska
Russell, Israel C. (Cook)
Alaska -- Description and travel; Saint Elias, Mount (Alaska and Yukon)
During my imprisonment at the highest camp, Mr. Kerr was detained
under similar circumstances at the camp below Rope cliff. On
endeavoring to rejoin me with the supply of coal oil, so very valuable
under the circumstances, he was caught in the storm and was unable to
reach the rendezvous appointed. He reached Rope cliff late in the
afternoon of the first day of the storm, climbed the precipice, and
found his way through the gathering darkness, along the nearly
obliterated trail beneath the avalanche cliffs, and up the steps cut
in the snow-cliff, to the site of our bivouac camp. Finding nothing
there, and being unable to proceed farther through the blinding storm,
he abandoned the attempt and returned to the camp below Rope cliff. In
descending the rope, he found that its lower end had become fast in
the snow. The taut line, sheathed with ice, was an uncertain help in
the darkness. Midway in the descent his hands slipped and he slid to
the bottom; but the cushion of new snow broke the fall and prevented
serious injury. Alone, without fire, without blankets, having only a
canvas cover and a rubber cloth for shelter, and with but little food,
he passed three anxious days and nights before the arrival of the camp
hands.
THE RETURN.
Deciding that the ascent of Mount St. Elias could not be accomplished
through the new snow, which refused to harden, it was decided to
abandon the attempt and return to Blossom island. Our retreat was none
too soon. Storm succeeded storm throughout September. Each time the
clouds lifted, the mantle {159} of new snow was seen to have descended
lower and lower. Our last view showed the wintry covering nearly down
to timber-line.
On the night of August 31 we slept at the camp beneath Rope cliff, but
had a most uncomfortable night. Six men sleeping in a tent measuring
seven by seven feet, with but little protection from the ice beneath,
certainly does not seem inviting to one surrounded by the comforts of
civilization. A large part of the night was occupied by Doney in
preparing breakfast over our oil-stove. An early start was welcome to
all; we were disappointed at not being able to reach the top of St.
Elias, and were anxious to return to more comfortable quarters. Kerr
concluded to return at once to Blossom island to recuperate, while I
made an excursion up the Seward glacier, with the hope of gaining the
upper ice-fall and seeing the amphitheatre beyond.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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