An Expedition to Mount St. Elias, AlaskaRussell, Israel C. (Cook)
History
An Expedition to Mount St. Elias, Alaska
Russell, Israel C. (Cook)
Alaska -- Description and travel; Saint Elias, Mount (Alaska and Yukon)
About noon we reached the base of the mountain spur toward which our
course was bent. It projects into the western border of Agassiz
glacier. It is the extension of this cliff underneath the glacier that
caused the ice-fall which blocked our way. To go round the end of the
cliff with our packs was impracticable, but there seemed a way up the
face of the cliff itself, which one could scale by taking advantage of
the joints in the rocks. I ascended the snow-slope to the base of the
precipice, but found the way upward more difficult than anticipated;
and, as the light was very painful to my eyes when not protected by
colored glasses, I decided to postpone making the climb until I was in
better condition, and in the meantime to see if some other route could
not be found. We decided to camp on a small patch of débris near the
base of the cliff, and there left our loads. Kerr and Lindsley, taking
a rope and alpenstocks, went around the end of the rocky spur and
worked their way upward with great difficulty to the top of the cliff
immediately above where I had essayed to climb it. A rope was made
fast at the top, and our way onward was secured. This place was
afterward called _Rope cliff_. The remainder of the afternoon I rested
in the tent, with my eyes bound up with tea-leaves, and when evening
came found the pain in my head much relieved.
Our tent that night was so near the brink of a crevasse that in order
to stay the tent one end of the ridge-rope was made fast to a large
stone, which was lowered into the gulf to serve as a stake. Above us
rose a precipice nearly a thousand feet high, from which stones were
constantly falling; but a deep black gulf intervened between the
position we had chosen and the base of the cliffs, and into this the
stones were precipitated. Not one of the falling fragments reached the
edge of the snow slope on which we were camped, but many times during
the night we heard the whiz and hum of the rocks as they shot down
from the cliffs. {150} The noise made by each fragment in its passage
through the air increased rapidly in pitch, thus indicating that they
were approaching us; but they always fell short of our camp. The
bombardment from above was most active just after the shadows fell on
the cliffs, showing that the stones were loosened by the freezing of
the water in the interstices of the rock.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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