An Expedition to Mount St. Elias, AlaskaRussell, Israel C. (Cook)
History
An Expedition to Mount St. Elias, Alaska
Russell, Israel C. (Cook)
Alaska -- Description and travel; Saint Elias, Mount (Alaska and Yukon)
In the morning, August 24, the storm had spent its force and left the
mountains with an immaculate covering, but still partially veiled by
shreds of storm-clouds. We found ourselves on one of the many tables
of snow, bounded on all sides by crevasses of great depth, but not far
from the snow-cliff where we had cut steps. The steps were obliterated
by the new snow, but by means of a rope and alpenstocks we made the
descent without much difficulty. The last man to go down, not having
the help of the rope, used two alpenstocks, and descended by first
planting one firmly in the snow and lowering himself as far as he
could, still retaining a firm hold, and then planting the other in the
snow at a lower level and removing the higher one. By slowly and
carefully repeating this operation he descended the cliff safely and
rejoined his companions. Passing on beneath the cliffs, dangerous on
account of avalanches, we reached in safety the precipice where we had
left our rope. A heavy avalanche had swept down from the heights above
during our absence and sent its spray over the precipice we had to
descend. The cliff of ice towering above the place where our rope was
fastened had become greatly melted and honey-combed, and threatened
every moment to crash down and destroy any one who chanced to be
beneath. To stand above the precipice in the shadow of the treacherous
snow-cliffs while the men were descending the rope was exceedingly
trying to one's nerves; but the avalanches did not come, and the
previous camping place below Rope cliff was reached with safety.
The following day, August 25, after some consultation, it was decided
to once more attempt to reach the top of Mount St. Elias. Lindsley and
Stamy, who had shared without complaint our privations in the snow,
volunteered to descend to a lower camp for additional rations, while
Kerr and myself returned to the higher camp in the hope that we might
be able to ascend the peak before the men returned, and, if not, to
have sufficient rations when they did rejoin us to continue the
attack. The men departed on their difficult errand, while Kerr and I,
with blankets, tents, oil-stoves, and what rations remained, once more
scaled the cliff where we had placed a rope, and returned on the trail
made the day previously. About noon we reached the excavation in the
snow where we had bivouacked in the storm, {154} and there prepared a
lunch. It was then discovered that we had been mistaken as to the
quantity of oil in our cans; we found scarcely enough to cook a single
meal. To attempt to remain several days in the snow with this small
supply of fuel seemed hazardous, and Mr. Kerr volunteered to descend
and overtake the men at the lower camp, procure some oil, and return
the following day. We then separated, Mr. Kerr starting down the
mountain, leaving me with a double load, weighing between sixty and
seventy pounds, to carry through the deep snow to the high camp
previously occupied.
ALONE IN THE HIGHEST CAMP.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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