An Explorer's Adventures in TibetLandor, Arnold Henry Savage
History
An Explorer's Adventures in Tibet
Landor, Arnold Henry Savage
Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
"_Gigri duk! gigri duk! Jogpa, Jogpa!_" (Danger! danger! Help,
brigands, brigands!) cried the Tibetan, running frantically out of his
tent. A few seconds later black figures could be seen everywhere,
dashing in and out of their tents. It must be remembered that, according
to the manners of Tibet, one should time one's arrival at an encampment
so as to reach it before sundown, unless notice of one's approach is
sent ahead. People who arrive unexpectedly in the middle of the night
are never credited with good motives--nothing short of murder, robbery,
or extortion. I tried to set the minds of the Tibetans at ease by
telling them that I meant no harm, but such was their excitement and
fright that I could get no one to listen to me.
Two old women came to us with a bucket of milk and laid it at my feet,
entreating me to spare their lives. Great was their astonishment when,
instead of finding themselves murdered, they received a silver rupee in
payment. This was the first step toward a peaceful settlement of the
disturbance. After some time calm was restored, and though still
regarded with suspicion, we were politely treated by the natives.
Unfortunately, here too we were unable to purchase provisions, the
natives declaring that they had not sufficient food for themselves. At
night the thermometer fell to 26 deg. We felt the cold intensely. We
purchased a quantity of dung from the natives and made a fire in the
morning. Having feasted on the goat, which we killed, and on yak's milk,
we made preparations to strike camp early next morning. Having had a
good meal after several days' privations, we felt happier than usual.
On leaving Tarbar we followed for a while the course of the river. It
was a glorious day, and we were able to admire the magnificent panorama
of the great rugged mountain range to the south-west of us. The higher
peaks were nearly all shaped like pyramids. I observed a gigantic
quadrangular peak which I took to be Mount Everest. Next to it was
another pyramidical peak, also very lofty, but not so high and beautiful
as its neighbor. I followed a general course toward east-south-east. As
the river, which we had more or less followed, now described a big bend
toward the south-south-east, I decided to cross it. We waded through it
successfully with water up to our necks, and again we found ourselves
upon marshy land, with a repetition of the previous day's experience.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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