An Explorer's Adventures in TibetLandor, Arnold Henry Savage
History
An Explorer's Adventures in Tibet
Landor, Arnold Henry Savage
Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
The day now dawning was one full of strange incidents. When the sun was
high in the sky, the Pombo, with a great number of Lamas, rode down from
the monastery, a short distance away. He went to his tent. Soon after,
my cases of scientific instruments were brought outside and opened, the
soldiers and Lamas displaying an amusing mixture of curiosity and
caution over everything they touched. I had to explain the use of each
instrument, a difficult matter indeed, considering their ignorance and
my limited knowledge of Tibetan, which did not allow of my delivering
scientific lectures in their language. The sextant was looked upon with
great suspicion, and even more so the hypsometrical apparatus, with its
thermometers in brass tubes, which they took to be some sort of firearm.
Then came a lot of undeveloped photographic plates, box after box of
which they opened in broad daylight, destroying in a few moments all the
valuable negatives that I had taken since leaving Mansarowar. The Pombo,
more observant than the others, noticed that the plates turned into a
yellowish color on being exposed to the light.
"Why is that?" he asked.
"It is a sign that you will suffer for what you are doing to me."
The Pombo flung away the plate he had picked up and was much upset. He
ordered a hole to be dug in the ground some way off, and all the plates
to be instantly buried. The soldiers, however, who had been intrusted
with the order, seemed loath to touch the plates, and they had to be
reprimanded and beaten by the Lamas, before they would obey. At last,
with their feet, they pushed the boxes of negatives to a spot some
distance off, where, in dog fashion, they dug a deep hole with their
hands in the muddy ground. There my precious photographic work of
several weeks was covered with earth forever.
Now came my paint-box with its cakes of water-colors.
"What do you do with these?" cried an angry Lama, pointing at the
harmless colors.
"I paint pictures."
"No, you are lying. With the 'yellow' you find where gold is in the
country, and with the 'blue' you discover where malachite is."
I assured them that this was not the case, and told them that if they
would untie me I would, on recovering the use of my arms, paint a
picture before them.
They prudently preferred to leave me tied up.
Their whole attention was now drawn to a considerable sum in silver and
gold which they found in the pack-cases. The Pombo warned the people
that not one coin must be stolen.
I took this chance to make an offering of five hundred rupees to the
Lamasery. I also told the Pombo that I should like him to accept as a
gift my Martini-Henry rifle, which I noticed rather took his fancy.
Both gifts were refused. They said the Lamasery was very rich, and the
Pombo's position as an official did not allow him to carry a rifle. The
Pombo, nevertheless, fully appreciated the offer, and came personally to
thank me.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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