An Explorer's Adventures in TibetLandor, Arnold Henry Savage
History
An Explorer's Adventures in Tibet
Landor, Arnold Henry Savage
Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
Morning came. I was given a beautiful pony to ride. Chanden Sing and
Mansing were mounted on equally handsome animals. Then followed my
Tibetan troops--a grand cavalcade. We started gayly toward Taklakot. We
had been informed that the Jong Pen was concentrating his men at a
certain point on the road, where he intended to bar our way. It was this
point that we must force. My Tibetans said that they hated the Jong
Pen's men, and swore they would slaughter them all if they dared to
stand before us and prevent our passage.
"But they are such cowards," declared one of the Tibetan officers, "they
will run away."
All this talk suddenly stopped when we heard the distant tinkling of our
enemies' horse-bells. I encouraged my men as best I could, but a panic
began to spread among them. The Jong Pen's men came in sight. I
witnessed the strange spectacle of two armies face to face, each in
mortal terror of the other.
Notwithstanding my remonstrances, matchlocks and swords were deposited
on the ground with anxious eagerness by both parties, in order to show
that only peaceful intentions prevailed. Then a conference was held, in
which everybody seemed ready to oblige everybody else except me.
While this was still proceeding, a horseman arrived with a message from
the Jong Pen, and at last, to everybody's satisfaction, permission was
granted for us to proceed into Taklakot.
My army retraced its steps toward the north-west. Deposed from the high
military post, which I had occupied only for a few hours, I became again
a private individual and a prisoner. A large escort took us along a
rocky road following the course of the Gakkon River along barren cliffs.
We passed hundreds of _choktens_, large and small, mostly painted red,
and _mani_ walls. Then, having descended by a precipitous track on
whitish clay-soil, we reached a thickly inhabited district, where stone
houses were scattered all over the landscape. We saw on our left the
large monastery of Delaling, and, a little way off, the Gomba of
Sibling. Describing a sweeping curve among rocks and bowlders, we
rounded the high, graceful cliff, on the top of which towered the fort
and monasteries of Taklakot.
Such was our anxiety, when we reached this point, lest something should
happen and we should be taken back again by another route, that as soon
as we were across the wooden bridge over the Gakkon River, Chanden Sing
and I, on perceiving the large Shoka encampment at the foot of the hill,
lashed our ponies and ran away from our guard. Galloping our hardest
along the high cliff, riddled with holes and passages in which the
natives live, we found ourselves at last among friends again. The
Shokas, who had come over to this market to exchange their goods with
the Tibetans, were astounded when they saw us. They recognized us with
great difficulty.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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