An Explorer's Adventures in TibetLandor, Arnold Henry Savage
History
An Explorer's Adventures in Tibet
Landor, Arnold Henry Savage
Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
The injuries to my spine were severe, and gave me much trouble. At times
the whole of my left side became as if paralyzed. I experienced great
difficulty in sitting down when I had been standing, and in getting up
when I had been sitting down. Through the great strain they had
undergone, my joints were stiff and swollen, and remained so for several
months.
I was anxious to return to Europe as soon as possible. From Gungi and
Garbyang I travelled down to Askote in the company of the Political
Agent. The Nerpani road had fallen in two or three places. Rough, shaky
bridges had been constructed across the deep precipices. We met with a
hearty reception everywhere, and kindness was showered upon us by all
alike.
At Askote I met Mr. J. Larkin, hastily dispatched by the Government of
India to the frontier to conduct an inquiry into my case. Though still
suffering much pain, I insisted on turning back once more toward Tibet
to help him in his task. By quick marches we reached Garbyang and
climbed toward the snows. We intended crossing over the Lippu Pass into
Tibet to give the Jong Pen an opportunity of being interviewed. The
Tibetan official refused to meet us.
In order to give the Tibetans every chance, we climbed over the Lippu
Pass. It had been snowing heavily, and it was very cold. A Shoka had
only a few days previously been frozen to death in the snow trying to
cross over the pass. There were some twelve feet of snow, and the ascent
was not easy. Toiling for two hours from our last camp on the
mountain-side, we reached the summit of the pass. I was once more in
Tibet. Doctor Wilson, the Political Agent, and others were with us.
Having found a suitable spot where the wind did not cut quite so
furiously into our faces, we halted for a considerable time and waited
impatiently on the Tibetan side of the boundary for the Jong Pen or his
deputies, to whom letters had been sent asking them to come and meet us.
They did not put in an appearance.
In the afternoon of October 12th I finally turned my back on the
Forbidden Land. I was still far from well, but was glad indeed at the
prospect of seeing England and my friends again.
We returned to our camp, a few hundred feet lower than the pass, where
we had left our baggage and many of our men who were laid up with
mountain sickness.
Having fulfilled our mission, Mr. Larkin and I returned by quick marches
to Almora. In conducting the inquiry for the British Government, Mr.
Larkin obtained at the frontier ample testimony of what had occurred. A
full report was sent to the Government of India, and to the Foreign
Office and India Office in London. A copy of the Government Report will
be found in the Appendix.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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