“You want to see Bulgaria? Very well, I will give orders that you have good guides, and that you are supplied with all the official information available. Only,” he laughed, “please do not flatter us. We prefer honest criticism.” He took down a list of the heads of the information I wanted, gave me a cigarette, and then we discussed the future of Bulgaria. “His Royal Highness the Prince has told me that he sent you an autographed portrait last night. Have you received it?” I replied in the affirmative. “He will see you in Varna,” he went on. “His Highness particularly wishes to see you.” Then I asked him to explain Bulgaria’s future policy in the Balkans. “You heard my speech in the Sobranje. Well, that constitutes in brief the future policy of Bulgaria—peace. We are a young nation, and we do not desire any complications with our neighbours. You have seen Sofia. You have seen how in the past ten years it has risen. Yet there still remains very much to do. The city is in a state of construction, and so it is all through the country. All we desire is to be allowed peace, in order to develop our resources.” “And your relations with Turkey?” I asked. “Ah! those constant incidents in Macedonia are of course regrettable. The question is always with us. Yet since I assumed office I have received reports from our diplomatic agent in Constantinople which clearly show that Turkey has assumed a much more conciliatory attitude. We are hoping for the best. Our relations with Turkey are still friendly, and the friendship is becoming daily more firmly cemented. What we wish, however, to see is greater interest taken by the Powers in the Macedonian question. Neither Bulgaria nor Servia nor Roumania can solve the great problem—only joint action by the Powers. We hope that, ere long, an international council may be held to discuss and decide the question once and for all. The present state of affairs is intolerable. But you will see for yourself when you get into Macedonia.” And assuredly, two months later, I did see—things that are incredible in Europe in this twentieth century. [Illustration: Summit of the Shipka Pass.] [Illustration: Defile of the Isker.]