Balkan Peninsula -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Balkan)
This continued for a couple of days, when he gave me up and disappeared.
After that I was watched by two agents, who kept me always under close
surveillance. I was more amused than annoyed, yet I confess I
entertained constant anxiety regarding the confidential despatches that
were in my possession, to be handed over to the King’s Messenger on his
way from Constantinople to London at the earliest moment.
The traveller can only reach Sarayevo from three points: from the north
from Bosnche-Brod or Banja-Louka, and from the south by Metkovitch. The
local authorities of these three places know each traveller who passes,
and to the stranger’s compartment there enters a pleasant person of
engaging manner, who becomes his fellow-traveller, whiles away the
tedious hours, explains the objects of interest along the route, and at
the same time discovers a good deal about the new-comer. The secret
agent will discourse upon the peace of the country, the prosperity of
the people, the impartiality of the administration, and the rapid
strides of progress being made on every hand. Meanwhile, news of the
stranger has been telegraphed to Sarayevo, and when the polite traveller
has parted from the stranger, the latter at once falls under a strict
surveillance, of which he never dreams.
Should you let drop the remark that you have come to Bosnia to study the
conditions of the country, then the attention paid to you will be
prodigious. Kind friends, overflowing with information, will be your
guides everywhere: they will conduct you to visit the authorities; they
will pay for your cabs, give you luncheons at restaurants, and accompany
you of an evening even to the door of your bedroom, until you will think
the country a veritable El Dorado. Strangers who come to study are, of
course, dangerous to the Administration, and therefore are carefully
watched, and treated with unsurpassing generosity. Spies surround him,
and the people, knowing those spies by sight, fear to approach him. In
some cases a peasant or a citizen has approached a stranger and told him
some plain truths—the truths I have learnt and written in these
pages—and for doing so has invariably been sent to prison. These lessons
have borne fruit, for nowadays nothing in the world will induce the
Bosnian peasant to talk to a stranger. He is far too afraid.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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