Balkan Peninsula -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Balkan)
In the diplomatic circle one hears everywhere a cry of “shame” upon the
false news which, being supposed to emanate from reliable sources in
Belgrade, is really manufactured across the Save at Zimony by
irresponsible journalists in the pay of Austria. The Servian officials
actually gave me the names of some of these gentlemen.
In the English newspapers one reads constantly telegrams from Vienna,
generally to that very irresponsible and sensational journal the _Zeit_,
declaring that there are all sorts of plots in Servia against King
Peter. A short time ago this journal actually had the audacity to say
that the Crown Prince was insane! Such telegrams should be read with
entire disbelief, for they emanate from certain Hungarian journalists
who were expelled from Belgrade on account of the false news despatched
from there, and now live across the river at Zimony, whence they
continually launch their tirades against Servia and the Servians.
What I read from time to time in the English papers regarding Servia is
so utterly opposed to the truth—and in our most responsible journals,
too—that it often utterly amazes me.
There is a scheme on foot started by an English company to build a large
new hotel in Belgrade—which is badly wanted. The Grand is full to
overflowing all the year round, and strangers are nightly turned away.
It is, I believe, intended to build the hotel on English lines, with a
few private sitting-rooms where the traveller can be quiet and rest in
peace away from the turmoil and clatter inseparable from a huge garish
café.
The streets are usually broad, straight, and if not actually handsome
thoroughfares, are well adapted for improvement and the erection of
larger buildings. Most of the suburban houses are of a ground floor
only, which strike the Englishman as curious; for as the windows are on
a level with the street, there is an utter lack of privacy in family
life. Servians of both sexes, I noticed, are great cigarette-smokers,
and Servian cigarettes I found were the best in the Balkans.
The pleasantest promenade is the Kalemegdan, the pretty gardens situated
behind the old fortress which commands the junction of the Danube and
the Save, while on the bank rises the Neboyscha (the fearless) tower, of
which many terrible tales are told of the days of the Turks. In the
Kalemegdan, adorned with bronze busts of Servian poets and savants,
smart Belgrade promenades every afternoon and admires the beautiful view
from the Fikir-Bair (“the slope of dreaming”), the smart uniforms of the
officers lending the necessary touch of colour to complete a charming
scene.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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