P.S.--That Galloway fly--"The Butcher and Lang"--has been avenged. A
copy of him, on the line of a friend, has proved deadly on the Tweed,
killing, among other victims, a sea-trout of thirteen pounds.
THE DOUBLE ALIBI
Glen Aline is probably the loneliest place in the lone moorlands of
Western Galloway. The country is entirely pastoral, and I fancy that the
very pasture is bad enough. Stretches of deer-grass and ling, rolling
endlessly to the feet of Cairnsmure and the circle of the eastern hills,
cannot be good feeding for the least Epicurean of sheep, and sheep do not
care for the lank and sour herbage by the sides of the "lanes," as the
half-stagnant, black, deep, and weedy burns are called in this part of
the country. The scenery is not unattractive, but tourists never wander
to these wastes where no inns are, and even the angler seldom visits
them. Indeed, the fishing is not to be called good, and the "lanes,"
which "seep," as the Scotch say, through marshes and beneath low
hillsides, are not such excellent company as the garrulous and brawling
brooks of the Border or of the Highlands. As the lanes flow, however,
from far-away lochs, it happens that large trout make their way into
them--trout which, if hooked, offer a gallant resistance before they can
be hauled over the weeds that usually line the watercourses.
Partly for the sake of trying this kind of angling, partly from a
temporary distaste for the presence of men and women, partly for the
purpose of finishing a work styled "A History of the Unexplained," I once
spent a month in the solitudes of Glen Aline. I stayed at the house of a
shepherd who, though not an unintelligent man was by no means possessed
of the modern spirit. He and his brother swains had sturdily and
successfully resisted an attempt made by the schoolmaster at a village
some seven miles off to get a postal service in the glen more frequently
than once a week. A post once a week was often enough for lucky people
who did not get letters twice a year. It was not my shepherd, but
another, who once came with his wife to the village, after a twelve
miles' walk across the hills, to ask "what the day of the week was?" They
had lost count, and the man had attended to his work on a day which the
dame averred to be the Sabbath. He denied that it _was_ the Sabbath, and
I believe that it turned out to be a Tuesday. This little incident gives
some idea of the delightful absence of population in Glen Aline. But no
words can paint the utter loneliness, which could actually be felt--the
empty moors, the empty sky. The heaps of stones by a burnside, here and
there, showed that a cottage had once existed where now was no
habitation. One such spot was rather to be shunned by the superstitious,
for here, about 1698, a cottar family had been evicted by endless
unaccountable disturbances in the house. Stones were thrown by invisible
hands--though occasionally, by the way, a white hand, with no apparent
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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