Whichever process of tanning has been used, the skins are neutralized and washed thoroughly, as for box calf, sammed and shaved. In dyeing, the skins are first mordanted with a filtered infusion of leaf sumach, used at 110° F. for half an hour. As fixing agent, 4 oz. tartar emetic per dozen skins is then added and the drumming continued for half an hour. The goods are washed, struck out and drum dyed at 140° F. with basic colours, and immediately fat liquored. In the fat liquors olive oil and castor oil, with the corresponding soaps, have been popular, but substitutes are now used on economical grounds. The skins are next horsed a while, well struck out again and dried strained. They are now finished off as for box calf, except that it is usual to grain only one way--neck to butt--and the season should consist of milk, water and albumin only, though sometimes other mucilagenous matters are added. As with box calf, the finishing may be varied in many ways. The skins may be dyed with acid colours after fat liquoring. For pale shades direct dyes are used without a mordant. For darker shades of brown and red, the dyewoods are used both as mordants and ground colours, and titanium salts are useful as fixing agents. Both the "box" and "willow" finish are largely a matter of public taste, and the fashion varies from time to time on such points as to whether the grain should be one way or two ways, and whether it should be faint or bold. There are also other common finishes besides the typical box grain. =Glacé calf= is made much in the same way as box calf, but there is no graining at all. The goods are usually seasoned and glazed three times. Small skins are preferred for this finish. =Dull calf= is also a plain finish. The leather contains more grease, and the fat liquor is made up with greater proportions of degras. The goods are not seasoned or glazed, but ironed, "sized" with gum, oil, soap and logwood, and after brushing are dried and rolled. In both these plain finishes a one-bath paddle or pit tannage is common, in order to ensure the smooth finish. REFERENCES. Procter, "Principles of Leather Manufacture," p. 198. Bennett, "Manufacture of Leather," pp. 55, 84, 105, 227, 360-363, 375. Bennett, "Theory and Practice in Wetwork of Chrome Calf," _Shoe and Leather Reporter_, Sept., 1909. SECTION IV.--CHROME GOAT AND SHEEP Immense quantities of goat and sheep skins are chrome tanned for upper leathers. Most of them are manufactured into the well-known and popular =Glacé kid=, to the manufacture of which this section is chiefly devoted. To be quite strict, glacé kid should be made from kid skins, but actually comparatively few of such skins are used, they being reserved rather for glove leathers. The popular upper leather is made from goatskins.