The manufacture of chrome sole leather presents many analogies with the
vegetable tannages. The soaking and liming should be about identical,
but the hides for chrome are generally given more sulphide and the
depilation is reduced to about a week. The methods used for deliming
differ widely in different factories. Some delime completely with
mineral acids, some even pickle in acid and salt, whilst others merely
delime the grain with boric acid. The last is really quite sufficient.
Again, in tanning one finds similar divergences of method. Drum tanning
is practised, but tannage in pits by suspension is more usual, though,
as this last involves more dilute liquors, it involves also greater time
to tan. In drum tannages a few days only are sufficient. In pit tanning
at least a week is given, but sometimes up to a month, according to the
strength of the final liquor and the rate of progress of the goods into
stronger liquors. Liquors containing over 1 per cent. of chromium may
easily be spent out so as to contain only 0.01 per cent. Labour and time
are saved in pit tanning by the use of rockers. The press system of
avoiding handling, however, so complicates the analytical control that
its advantage is doubtful, a better way being to shift the liquors by an
air ejector, which may also be used as an agitator of the liquor and
thus abolish the need for rockers ("Forsare" patent). Chrome butts are
tanned out in suspension. No floats or layers are used. The
neutralization need not be so thorough as for light chrome uppers, as
dyeing is not practised and trouble does not arise with emulsions made
from sulphonated oils. Thorough washing is advisable, and the butts are
usually then cut into bends and may be oiled before drying if desired.
The bends are dried strained, to obtain flatness and smooth grain, for
no machines, such as strikers and rollers, are usually employed. It is
necessary to dry very thoroughly, for the bends are waterproofed by
dipping the dry leather into molten waxes. The most commonly used wax
and the cheapest is paraffin wax with a m.p. of about 127° F. It is
rather a brittle wax, however, and as the finished leather consists of
up to one-third of the wax, it is better to use at least some proportion
of hard fat, Japan wax or ceresin wax, to obtain a stuffing material
with less crystalline texture. The use of 10-30 per cent. rosin in the
stuffing grease is also usual. This prevents the leather from being so
slippery when in wear. The stuffing should take place at temperatures
from 150°-195° F., according to the melting-point of the grease
employed. The bends are taken out and laid in pile to cool and set in a
flat condition, and are then finished.
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