Procter, "Principles of Leather Manufacture," p. 198.
Bennett, "Manufacture of Leather," pp. 234, 368.
PART IV.--MISCELLANEOUS TANNAGES
SECTION I.--ALUM TANNAGES
The use of alum for making pelt into leather is several centuries old.
It was the first case of what are called "mineral tannages." The tannage
is closely analogous in theory to the chrome tannages discussed in Part
III., and if soda be added to ordinary potash alum in solution, a basic
alum liquor is obtained which is quite capable of yielding a
satisfactory leather, and which is thus a strict analogy of the basic
chrome alum liquor described in Part III., Section II. The range of
basicity which is practicable is very limited, however, and it is much
more usual to use common salt with the alum instead of soda. The alum
is, of course, hydrolyzed and free sulphuric acid is quickly adsorbed,
whilst the colloidal solution of alumina is adsorbed also but more
slowly. The adsorbed acid tends to swell the pelt and to cause it to
take up the alumina less readily. The function of the salt is to repress
the swelling by a pickling action. The actual result is thus partly due
to the alum tannage and partly due to the temporary tannage given by the
pickle. Hence such tannages are not firmly "fixed," nor is the result
water-resisting, for much of the tanning material may be washed out. If,
however, such leathers be stored for a time in a dry condition, the
alumina becomes much more firmly fixed, owing probably to a further
dehydration of the alumina gel deposited upon the fibres. The tannage is
thus relatively more "irreversible," and such storage is practised in
commerce for this purpose, being known as the "ageing" of the leather.
It will be understood that it is possible to use too great a proportion
of salt, the hygroscopic nature of which would keep the leather moist
and thus interfere with a glossy finish. About one-third the weight of
the alum used is usually sufficient.
All that has been said in Part III. as to the empty nature of the chrome
tannage is equally applicable to the alum tannages. It is as necessary
therefore to employ filling agents. A fat liquor is quite satisfactory
for many purposes, but is too dark coloured and greasy for glove
leather. Egg yolk is the favourite emulsion in these cases. It contains
about 30 per cent. of an oil very similar to olein and in very perfect
emulsion. Olive oil is also largely olein and is also used, being
emulsified by the egg yolk and effectively reducing the proportion
required of this expensive material. Flour is also used as a filling
agent. It acts also as a whitening agent and as an emulsifier. Its use
enables the tanner to obtain the required fullness without so much
greasiness. Thus softness and fullness may be obtained, and yet a glossy
finish be possible. It will be clear that the more flour is used, the
more oil may also be used.
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