The formation of leather being due to the adsorption of colloidogenic
substances at the interface of the tanning liquor and the hide gel,
there is the obvious possibility that several such substances may be
used simultaneously, and that the resulting leather may be due to the
combined effect of these substances. Indeed, the average vegetable
tannage consists of such a combination tannage, each tanning material
contributing its own individual tannin and characteristic astringent
non-tannins. There is evidently also the possibility that the different
_types_ of tannage discussed above might be used either simultaneously
or successively, and that a leather might be obtained which combines to
some extent the qualities of each of the types in combination. It is
such a case that is generally called a "combination tannage." There are
many conceivable combinations, and in this section will be chiefly
discussed a few which have demonstrated some commercial possibilities.
Some of these have already received notice in the preceding sections.
The manufacture of curried dressing leathers is a combination of
vegetable and fat tannages. The manufacture of waterproof chrome uppers
illustrates a combination of chrome and fat tannages. The use of
"syntans" in conjunction with vegetable tanning materials is also a
combination tannage. The case of chamois leather is possibly a
combination of aldehyde tannage with fatty acid tannage. Two-bath chrome
leather is a combination of chrome, sulphur and fat tannage.
Formaldehyde and vegetable tannage is also a known possibility. It is
clear that there are possibilities of endless complexity, and that what
normally may appear as a simple tannage is in reality a very complex
combination tannage. From this standpoint one might instructively
consider the successive adsorptions involved in a goatskin tanned first
with syntans, then with oak bark, "retanned" in sumac, mordanted with
chrome, dyed with coal-tar dyestuffs and finally oiled with linseed oil.
It will be easily seen that in a very strict sense nearly all tannages
are combinations.
Usually, however, the term "combination tannage" is confined to those
cases where the main tanning agents not only differ in type, but where
none are in predominant quantity. A typical case is that of "semichrome
leather," in which a vegetable tannage is succeeded by a chrome tannage.
E.I. tanned sheep and goat skins are rather heavily "stripped" of their
vegetable tannage and heavy oiling, by drumming with warm soda
solutions, and after washing with water are chromed with the one-bath
process; they are neutralized, dyed, fat liquored and finished for glacé
upper leather.
In a precisely similar way kips and split hides which have received
vegetable tannage are stripped and retanned in chrome and finished as
for box calf, of which they are a good imitation. Such vegetable-chrome
combination tannages possess many of the properties of chrome leather.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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