In the leather trades by far the most important and valuable
bye-products are obtained from the hides and skins themselves, and all
these are obtained before the tannage proper is commenced. The leather
trades use only the dermis (corium) or true skin for the manufacture of
leather, and as we have noted (Part I., Section II.) this prepared and
purified dermis is called "pelt." The cuttings and trimmings from the
pelt form the most valuable bye-product of the leather trades, and are
the raw material of the gelatine and glue industries (Part V., Section
II.). Many portions of the pelt, indeed, such as ears, noses, and cows'
udders, are quite useless for any other purposes. Other portions, such
as cheeks, faces, and even bellies, may be made either into glue or
leather according to the state of trade. Hardly less important to the
same industry are the cuttings of adipose tissue removed in "fleshing"
the hides and skins. These, though yielding less protein, yield also,
however, the valuable animal greases (Part V., Section II.). To obtain
both these products in a purer condition the removal of "flesh" after
"soaking," but before "liming" (Part I., Section II.), has been favoured
by some, especially in America.
Amongst the epithelial structures of the hides and skins, we have
several protein bye-products which have some commercial value. The
horns of cattle are now almost invariably removed before reaching the
leather manufacturer, but have some little value. This part of the
epidermis is not solid keratin. A "pith" is easily removed after boiling
in water. The outer parts, too, are often coarse and somewhat damaged,
but if removed by scraping reveal often a rather beautiful structure of
varying colour. There is some opening for this product in the
manufacture of small articles of horn, but much of it, together with
hoofs, is roasted and crushed for making fertilizers. The hair of
cattle, goat, etc., has also a commercial value. This is removed after
liming, and needs subsequent purification (Part I., Section II.). The
hair is well washed with water, using either repeated changes or a
continuous supply, the operation being carried out in paddles or similar
machines which stir up the hair in the water. When clean, the hair is
transferred to a centrifugal machine or "spinner," in which much
adhering water is removed. This is a great assistance in drying out,
which is the next and final operation. In drying, the hair is laid upon
steam-heated boxes or pipes, and a current of warmed air passed over or
through it by means of a fan. It is better to have the hair "turned"
occasionally. This ensures quicker as well as more even drying. The
product is made up into large bales and sold for the manufacture of
felts, mattresses, etc. White hair is usually kept separate and commands
a larger price. The power consumed in driving the washing machinery, the
centrifuges and the drying fan, together with the fuel required for the
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