The manufacture of leather for the uppers of boots and shoes embraces a
bewildering variety of goods, suitable for anything between a baby's
shoe and a man's shooting boot. Almost all degrees of lightness,
softness, and waterproofness are in demand. A great variety of finish is
also involved, determined by the ingenuity of the currier and the
ever-changing fancy of the public. Even greater is the variety of
methods by which all these results are obtained by methods which
superficially seem quite different; the desired qualities being imparted
in one case largely by the tannage and in another case almost entirely
by the currying. Under such circumstances the selection of types becomes
a problem.
The variety, moreover, commences from the earliest stages, the selection
of the raw material. Upper leather may be made from light calfskins,
heavy calfskins, kips (home and foreign), light dressing hides and heavy
dressing hides, which last may replace any of the former after splitting
to the required substance. In this section it will be necessary to take
kips as typical of the rest, and to use it in a rather broad sense,
including heavy calf and light dressing hides.
Speaking quite generally, kips for upper leather receive usually a long
and mellow liming, a thorough bating and a sweet and very mellow tannage
in weak liquors. In currying they are well scoured and set out, heavily
stuffed and stained black, being sometimes finished on the grain and
sometimes on the flesh. These outstanding features of upper-leather
methods will be further illustrated by a brief account of the tanning
of kips (light hide and heavy calf), and outlining the best known types
of finish for butt, shoulder and belly.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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