Alaska -- Antiquities; Eskimos; Eskimos -- Anthropometry; Indians of North America -- Alaska; Indians of North America -- Yukon
Thursday, August 5. Sea calm, atmosphere hazy, but the wind has turned
at last slightly offshore and the sun penetrates through the mists,
until it conquers and shines, warm and bright if not wholly clear, once
more. Ice visible only on the horizon. At 7.15 we start on another
effort to reach Barrow.
Pass Wainwright, and all is well until after lunch, when fog (though
fortunately not thick) develops and the floes increase until they are
as thick as at the first attempt in this same region. Heavy bumps and
strains follow one another and the boat must often go very slow or
even stop altogether. Sometimes the heavy ship just staggers from the
impact, but the floes are generally broken by the shock and swirl away
out of our way, or scraping the ship pass to the rear. All aboard show
new interest and energy. The forced stops and inaction were dulling
even to the crew.
File a wireless to be sent from Barrow. It will reach Washington
to-morrow after we shall have started on the return journey.
Two dogs on board fight fiercely. An officer, the owner of one, trying
to separate them is bitten by his own through a finger.
A marine, in swinging the heavy lead with which they are constantly
sounding the depth, gets the cord caught about his hand and suffers a
bad sprain with fracture.
The captain's little black cat, Peter, helps to entertain us by his
antics. No wonder sailors in their often monotonous existence like all
sorts of mascots.
Friday, August 6. Of course our dates got mixed, and more than one has
to consult the calendar and count. The _Bear_ had to turn back once
more last night; ice too heavy. Anchored, however, not far to south.
This morning very cloudy, rainy, chilly, but wind from near to east,
and so from about 6 a. m. we are once more laboriously on our way.
Now and then a bump, heave, stagger, then again the screw resumes its
cheerful song. We are passing through the most dangerous part of all
the coast here where many vessels have been lost, sometimes whole small
fleets of whalers. But very few come here now--we have seen but one
since leaving Kotzebue. They call this stretch "the boat graveyard."
Saturday, August 7. Stalled, about 30 miles from Barrow. Anchored in
the protection of a great grounded flat, in a clear pond of water,
with ice all around it, but especially seaward, where the pack seems
solid. Some open water reported beyond it, but wind (wild) keeps from
the wrong quarter and the captain will make no further attempt until
conditions change. Of course it is cloudy again and has rained some
during the night and morning, but the temperature is somewhat higher,
so that one does not need an overcoat and gloves, although the officers
wear their sheep-lined short coats which are nice and warm.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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