The intention was to worry me so much in a polite quasi-legitimate
fashion that I could have no ostensible cause of complaint; but, at
the same time, so that I should incontinently quit the ancient City of
Córdoba in disgust. The reason for all this was the fact that, having
nothing better to do on the evening of my arrival, I had wandered into
the basement of my Hotel and there found a person who looked like, and
indeed was, a leading local politician running a roulette to catch the
nickels of a crowd of working men. At that time the roulette was the
scarcely concealed vice of the town, rife in the back room of every bar.
It is an illegal game in Argentina, as elsewhere except Monte Carlo, and
shortly after my visit it was the cause of a great outcry and scandal in
which several Provincial High Officials were involved.
I was a journalist and, therefore, dangerous. So a course of delicate
hints to me to get out had been planned and executed.
Following the gambling scandal, a leading Opposition politician was shot
dead in his carriage on the high road a short way outside the city. When
I read this news I was glad that I had not persisted in seeming to pry
into cupboards containing Córdoba’s official skeletons, and for similar
reasons I am still somewhat shy of Córdobese gentlemen with downcast eyes
and soft, measured tread.
All that, however, belongs to OLD Córdoba. The parts of the city called
New Córdoba and Alta Córdoba are replete with palatial residences as fine
and as new as residential palaces need be.
The City of Córdoba is not only the traditional seat of learning _par
excellence_ of the Republic, it is also, as a consequence of old-time
associations no doubt, its chief centre of clerical influence.
Córdoba is intensely and, if one may be permitted to say it, intolerantly
Catholic. Were it not subject to the democratic laws of a modern and very
go-ahead Republic one would hardly be surprised to find disciplinary
institutions of an Inquisitorial type still in full swing in this
old-world city of South America. As it is, there is no doubt of the
predominance of priestly influence in Provincial politics. Much of the
best freehold property in the city is owned by Monastic Orders or by the
Society of Jesus.
Most of the Province consists of a large plain; which, naturally, is
the chief productive area. But Córdoba has hills famous for the purity
of their air and great resorts for consumptive patients. ALTA GRACIA,
with its fine hotel, golf links, etc., has of late years acquired a
very favourable reputation as a place in which anyone may spend a very
pleasant and healthful week or so.
In the North-West of the Province are great salt marshes, in and around
which only a very scanty and meagre vegetation flourishes, and in the
North-East is the MAR CHIQUITA, a large and, in parts, very deep lake,
the waters of which are salty like those of the sea. Hence its name.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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