Many parts of Argentina have been described as “The Garden of the
Republic,” and many as its most picturesque region, but the latter
description can surely only truthfully apply to Misiones. If not
sufficiently trim and cultivated to be called a garden, its superlative
beauty and its crowning marvel the Iguazú Falls must leave even the most
callous visitor pleasurably astounded; and not a little awestruck with
its ruins and reminiscences of the dawn of South American civilization,
which was heralded in these parts by the Jesuit Fathers. These
Missionaries made most practical Christians of the surrounding tribes;
teaching them the arts of architecture, carpentry, and such-like; not
forgetting humility and obedience.
If one wants proof of all this one need but look on the ruins of
monastery and church now half hidden amid an ever-encroaching luxuriant
vegetation.
The descendants of those same Indians can hardly be got to do as much
work in a lifetime now as they must have done in a week under the mild
but very firm rule of the Jesuit Fathers. Eventually, the power these
Missionaries had attained over the surrounding tribes became such as to
label them dangerous to even Catholic Spain; and an order was given, and
enforced, for their expulsion. They were scattered: and but the ruins of
their solid, sculptured masonry, gardens and orange and olive groves now
mark the places where once white-clad natives kept fast and feast days
with as much solemn orderliness as ever so many timid monastic novices
could do.
Nowadays, one can get from Buenos Aires to Misiones either by rail
(North-East Argentine Railway) or by the Mihanovich company’s boats. Both
ways furnish delightful travelling through interesting and picturesque
country, though for pure scenery the river way is the best. The best of
all, however, is to go up by rail and down again by boat and to see all
there is, and there is a very great deal worth seeing, to be seen.
By either route one can stop at Posadas, the capital, evidently from its
name an ancient resting-place for travellers (Posada being Spanish for an
inn).
But people who are bent on reaching San Ignacio, a small river port, or
rather clearance on the Upper Paraná, near which are the chief of the
ruined Jesuit Missions, and the Iguazú Falls will probably leave Posadas
for closer inspection if need be, on the return journey.
Once again we board a Mihanovich boat and go up a seeming river of
fairyland.
An adequate description of the majestic splendour and beauty of the
Iguazú Falls is far beyond the pen of the present writer. One is
gradually prepared for the great sight by a series of smaller cascades
and cataracts of other converging rivers which one passes on the way to
where the Iguazú hurls its large volume of water in downward jumps or
in one horseshoe-shaped, thundering, frothy mass. Where it falls one is
face to face with the greatest waterfalls in the whole world,[32] as the
following comparative figures will show:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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