The dance begins late in the afternoon and lasts less than one hour,
but while it is in progress the action is intense. The snakes are
carried in a bag or jar from the Kiva to the Kisa, built of cotton-wood
boughs on one side of the plaza, where the snakes are banded out to the
dancers. After much marching and countermarching about the plaza,
chanting weird songs and shaking rattles, the column of snake priests,
dressed in a fantastic garb of paint, fur and feathers, halts in front
of the Kisa and breaks up into groups of three.
The carrier takes a snake from the Kisa puts it in his mouth, and
carries it there while dancing. Some of the more ambitious young men
will carry two or more of the smaller snakes at the same time. The
hugger throws his left arm over the shoulder of the carrier and with
his right hand fans the snake with his feather whip. The gatherer
follows after and picks up the snakes as they fall to the ground.
After the snakes have all been danced they are thrown into a heap and
sprinkled with sacred corn meal by the young women. The scattering of
the meal is accompanied by a shower of spittle from the spectators, who
are stationed on, convenient roofs and ladders viewing the ceremony.
Fleet runners now catch up the snakes in handfuls and dash off in an
exciting race over the mesa and down rocky trails to the plains below
where the snakes are returned unharmed to their native haunts.
While the men are away disposing of the reptiles the women carry out
large ollas, or jars, filled with a black liquid, which is the snake
medicine that is used in the final act of purification by washing.
When the men return to the mesa they remove their regalias and proceed
to drink of the snake medicine which acts as an emetic. With the
remainder of the concoction, and assisted by the women, they wash their
bodies free from paint. After the men are all washed and puked they
re-enter the Kiva, where the long fast is broken by a feast and the
formal ceremonies of the snake dance are ended.
The snake dance is annually witnessed by many visitors who gather from
different sections of the country and even foreign lands. As there are
no hotels to entertain guests every visitor must provide his own outfit
for conveyance, eating and sleeping. Even water is scarce. Local
springs barely furnish enough water to supply the native population;
and when the number of people to be supplied is increased from one to
two hundred by the visitors who attend the dance, the water question
becomes a serious problem.
On the lower portion of the road which leads up from the spring to the
gap at Walpi on the first mesa, the trail is over drifted sand which
makes difficult walking. To remedy this defect in the trail, a path
has been made of flat stones laid in the sand, which shows that the
Moquis are quick to recognize and utilize an advantage that contributes
to their convenience and comfort.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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