Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
as the comparatively level ground upon which we now stood, were
covered with a scorched but abundant vegetation, which had served the
Kurds during earlier summer as pasture for their flocks, and still
sheltered numerous coveys of plump partridges, in which this part of
the mountain abounds.
At the mouth of this valley, on the gently sloping platform which its
even surface presents, we marked out the spaces of our bivouac, the
pickets for the horses, and the fires. Our men were acquainted with
every cranny; we had halted near the site of their summer encampment,
from which they had only recently descended to their winter quarters
in the plain. As we dismounted we were met by a graceful figure,
clad in a Circassian coat of brown material let in across the breast
with pink silk--a young man of most engaging appearance and manners,
presented to us as the chief of the Kurds on Ararat who own allegiance
to the Tsar. In the high refinement of his features, in the bronzed
complexion and soft brown eyes, the Kurd made a striking contrast
to the Cossacks--a contrast by no means to the advantage of the
Cis-Caucasian race. The young chief is also worthy to be remembered
in respect of the remarkable name which he bears. His Kurdish title
of Shamden Agha has been developed and embroidered into the sonorous
appellation of Hasan Bey Shamshadinoff, under which he is officially
known.
From the edge of the platform upon which we were standing the ground
falls away with some abruptness down to the base below, and lends
to the valley its characteristic appearance of an elevated stage and
natural viewing-place, overtowered by the summit regions of the dome
and the pyramid, and commanding all the landscape of the plain. On the
south-west, as it rises towards the pass between the two mountains--a
pass of 8800 feet, leading into Turkish and into Persian territory,
to Bayazid or Maku--the extent of even ground which composes this
platform cannot much exceed a quarter of a mile. It is choked by the
rocky causeways which, sweeping down the side of Great Ararat, tumble
headlong to the bottom of the fork, and, taking the inclination of
the ever-widening valley, descend on the north-western skirt of the
platform in long, oblique curves of branching troughs and ridges,
falling fanwise over the base. The width of the platform, at the mouth
of the valley, may be about three-quarters of a mile. It is here that
the Kurds of the surrounding region gather, as the shades of night
approach, to water their flocks at the lonely pool which is known as
the sirdar's well. On the summit of the lesser Ararat there is a little
lake, formed of melted snows; the water permeates the mountain, and
feeds the sirdar's pool. Close by, at the foot of the lesser mountain,
is the famous covert of birch--low bushes, the only stretch of wood
upon the fabric, which is entirely devoid of trees. The wood was
soon crackling upon our fires, and the water hissing in the pots;
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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