Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
The rocks still climb the increasing gradient, but the snow is
closing in. At eleven we halt to copy an inscription, which has
been neatly written in Russian characters on the face of a boulder
stone. It records that on the third day of the eighth month of 1893
the expedition led by the Russian traveller Postukhoff passed the
night in this place. At the foot of the stone lie several objects:
a bottle filled with fluid, an empty tin of biscuits, a tin containing
specimens of rock.
At half-past eleven I take the angle of the snow slope, at this
point 35°. About this time the Swiss thinks it prudent to link us all
together with his rope. The surface of the rocks is still uncovered,
but their bases are embedded in deep snow.
It is now, after six hours' arduous climbing, that the strain of the
effort tells. The lungs are working at the extreme of their capacity,
and the pressure upon the heart is severe. At noon I call a halt, and
release young Wesson from his place in the file of four. His pluck is
still strong, but his look and gait alarm me, and I persuade him to
desist. We leave him to rest in a sheltered place, and there await
our return. From this time on we all three suffer, even the Swiss
himself. My cousin is affected with mountain sickness; as for me, I
find it almost impossible to breathe and climb at the same time. We
make a few steps upwards and then pause breathless, and gasp again
and again. The white slope vanishing above us must end in the crown
of the dome; and the boulders strewn more sparsely before us promise
a fairer way. But the further we go, the goal seems little closer;
and the shallow snow, resting on a crumbling rubble, makes us lose
one step in every three. A strong smell of sulphur permeates the
atmosphere; it proceeds from the sliding surface upon which we are
treading, a detritus of pale sulphurous stones.
At 1.25 we see a plate of white metal, affixed to a cranny in the
rocks. It bears an inscription in Russian character which dates from
1888. I neglect to copy out the unfamiliar letters; but there can be
little doubt that they record the successful ascent of Dr. Markoff,
an ascent which cost him dear.
A few minutes later, at half-past one, the slope at last eases,
the ground flattens, the struggling rocks sink beneath the surface
of a continuous field of snow. At last we stand upon the summit of
Ararat--but the sun no longer pierces the white vapour; a fierce gale
drives across the forbidden region, and whips the eye straining to
distinguish the limits of snow and cloud. Vague forms hurry past on
the wings of the whirlwind; in place of the landscape of the land of
promise we search dense banks of fog.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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