Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
Behind the lofty wall of rock which is seen on the left of my
illustration, in jagged outline against the snows, a glacier
descends from the summit region which is probably the only true
glacier on Ararat, and which I should judge to be gradually
decreasing in extent. According to Abich, the long ridges which
have the appearance of piles of boulders, and which are seen in
his illustration descending the trough of the chasm to a point some
distance below St. Jacob's Well, were composed in 1874 of compact and
dirty glacier ice, covered over with stones and débris. He informs us
that in 1844 there was a direct but deeply buried connection between
this ice and the ice in the circus at the lower end of the glacier;
and that in 1874 this connection had been severed, and the ice-hills
themselves had decreased about one-third in height. [107] On the top
of these ridges he discovered a series of marshes and little lakes,
of which the largest was several hundred paces in circumference. I
cannot testify myself to the present condition of these ice-hills; I
cannot even say that they exist. I did not see any ice in the trough
of the chasm, although it was evident that its present condition was
largely due to ice action, and although we admired a little lake of
glacier water, set like a turquoise in the waste of mud and stones. It
is computed that the actual glacier descends as low as a level of
about 8000 feet--a notable fact when we consider that the line of
perpetual snow on this side of Ararat is as high as 14,000 feet.
We lingered for some little space in the ravine beyond St. Jacob's
Well, waiting for the clouds to lift. But they hung jealously about the
upper slopes of the precipices, whence a mist descended upon us like
rain. The mountain thundered; from time to time the mist was gently
parted, and gave passage to the sun. If we were disappointed of a
clear view of the higher regions, we were at least able to appreciate
to the full the vista down the weird chasm to the fair landscape of
the plain. The comparative straightness of the gulf renders such a
prospect possible, even from its uppermost end. No projecting spur or
interposed eminence obstructs the continuous stretch of the hollow
outlines to the distant campagna of the river-side. On the horizon
were the crinkled mountains in the direction of Lake Sevan, flushed
with tints of delicate yellow and amethyst, lightly shaded with opal
hues. Deep gloom lay upon the floor of the abyss, and only the pools
of blue glacier water caught the brilliance of day. On the open base
beyond these shadows the sinuous lines of dry watercourses led the eye
into the expanse of the plain; and we could still see the recumbent
blocks which once hung in pinnacles above the spot upon which we stood.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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