Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
His Holiness invited me to take my meals in his private dining-room,
and expressed his regret that he would not be present himself. It
happened to be a fast day, and nothing was offered but lentils and
peas. But on the day following quite a banquet was spread before
us--salmon trout from Lake Sevan, delicious dolmas of minced meat
and rice bound together by tender cabbage leaves, and the usual
not very tasty chickens. At the head of the table sat the vicar or
substitute of the Katholikos, with M. Pribil on a special mission
representing the Emperor on his right hand, and General Frese on his
left. One or two Armenian notables were of the party, which, however,
consisted for the most part of bishops resident at Edgmiatsin. All
wore their black silk cowls during the meal. As one looked down the
line of clerics the aquiline type of face predominated--fine human
animals they seemed, with their pronounced features and limpid eyes
and the long beards which keep their colour and speak of a mind at
ease. One of the monks present spoke French fluently; but he had been
imported from the Crimea by the present Katholikos. His name was Khoren
Stephaneh. Many a pleasant talk I had with him, but not during dinner;
they have too much respect in the East for their food and cook to
divert the tongue at such a time from its proper function. What little
ripples of conversation diversified the natural sounds of the meal
were due to that restless spirit of the West, which is always asking
questions and living several hours in advance of the actually present
time. I do not know that either of the high Russian functionaries
were much troubled by this particular product of Western culture;
but, if they were, they must have suffered from the inability of
their hosts to comprehend their language. The wine of the cloister
flowed freely, and was supplemented by European liqueurs. Then the
restless spirit broke bounds, attacking first the taciturnity of the
Governor of Erivan. The formula I had heard so often was the first to
take wing; and "How long are you staying here?" came across the table
in a somewhat loud voice. It was not the least unkindly meant. Next
the same little sprite perched upon M. Pribil, and extracted several
questions, which it let fly. When we rose from table he engaged me
in a discursive conversation which ranged freely over the Armenian
Question. He affirmed that the Armenians did not compose more than
one-fifth of the population of the Russian provinces south of Caucasus.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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