Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
When morning came our effects had not yet arrived; we reflected that
we had given the rendezvous at Ani, and, although we felt sure that
the laggards would cross the river at our village, decided to push
on. The Arpa flows between high banks, a deeply eroded and sinuous bed,
hidden by precipitous cliffs of black rock. You form the conception of
a trough or fissure in the surface of the tableland, which undulates
away into the distance on every side. After fording the stream, we
proceeded along the right bank, and, at no great distance, opened
out a romantic valley on our left hand, similar in character to that
which adjoins the site of the Armenian village. In both places the
river describes a complete S, and is lost in the gloom of overhanging
walls. The disposition of these rocky sides assumes the appearance of
a glen, in which are situated the remains of an extensive monastery,
bearing the name of Khosha Vank. Just beyond this standpoint we
gained the high land above the river; and there before us, on the
plain, lay the ruins which we had been seeking, at the distance of
an hour's canter from the cloister, or of a couple of hours' ride
from Kizilkilisa.
Descrying horses in the direction of Ani, we galloped forward and
overtook them; they proved to be our missing cavalcade. They had passed
the river at a place lower down than where we had crossed it, and were
pursuing their way in a most leisurely manner. After opening one of
the cases in order to replenish the slides of the camera, we returned
to the glen, and again forded the stream. We spent a considerable time
at the cloister and in its neighbourhood; it was certainly the most
remarkable building which we had yet seen. Reserving a description
of its ancient church and halls of audience, I shall only refer to
a couple of illustrations in this place. The one (Fig. 93, p. 386)
shows the ensemble of the monastery; but, having been taken from the
east, where the ground is open and the landscape tame, misses the
peculiar characteristics of the site. The other (Fig. 94, p. 387)
may convey some conception of the appearance of the glen, when seen
from the river-bed below the cloister. From the flat and water-worn
bottom rises a little tongue of higher land, upon which stand the
remains of two little chapels. On the cliff above the ravine you see
the pier of a ruined gateway, outlined against the sky. The track to
Ani leads up the cliffside and passes that ruin, which stands on the
plain in which the still-distant city lies.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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