Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
August 22.--Rain was falling as we slowly steamed away from the
station; it is almost always raining at Batum. The clouds cannot leap
the gigantic bulwark of the mountains at this south-eastern angle of
the sea; they cling to the fir-clad slopes or put out hands and scale
the escarpments until they become exhausted and dissolve. The town was
soon behind us as we wound along the foot of the range on the narrow
respite of the shore--Batum, with her grim defiance of the written law
of Europe, with her peaceful situation at the gate of the oil industry,
of which she receives the products by the railway from the Caspian
to distribute them over all the world; a creation of modern Russia
on the familiar official pattern of spreading boulevards with fine
shops and large hotels. Here is the starting-point of the first train
which skirts the coast of the Euxine--and even this remote example
of the species turns aside from the mysterious seaboard to the cities
of the interior after a brief space of some twenty miles. Yet within
such limits we are carried through the wildest piece of country that
may be found between the mouth of the river Rion and the entrance to
the Black Sea, a district endowed with extraordinary fertility, which
still remains unexploited and unreclaimed. It is inhabited here and
there by a few straggling settlements, which contrast to the splendour
of his natural surroundings the squalor of uncivilised man. We have
outreached the furthest extension of the fringe of Greek elements;
Georgian peoples live in the valleys of the interior and are thinly
scattered upon the malarious coast; while further east, where the
chain has left the sea and is aligned upon the plains, lowlands as
well as mountains, the skirts of the range and its innermost recesses
are the home of a population of Georgian race. Between Trebizond and
the Russian fortress first the Lazis and then the Ajars may perhaps
be regarded as transitional factors to the new order which commences
after you have left Batum. I should not venture to pronounce upon the
racial connections of the Lazis; they may represent the aboriginal
occupants of their country, the wild tribes who harassed the army of
Xenophon and were the settled plague of the Byzantine governors and
of the emperors of the Comnenian line. The Ajars would appear to be of
mixed parentage; like the Lazis they profess the Mohammedan faith. The
Georgian districts which we are now entering still retain the names of
the several independent principalities to which they formerly belonged,
and except in the case of Abkhasia, up in the north at the foot of
Caucasus, the Christian religion almost exclusively prevails. First
comes Guria along the shore and the bend of the mountains; Imeritia
extends on either bank of the Rion and as far as the pass of Suram;
Mingrelia is the name of the country on the north of the Kolchian
river, and it is bounded by Imeritia in the east.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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