Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
For a distance of some fifteen miles the landscape was monotonous;
on the one hand the almost vertical bulwark of the mountains, on the
other the little grey waves breaking on the stony shore. But just
before we arrived at the station of Kobulety the oppressive proximity
of the range was relaxed, the country opened, and between low forest
and maize-grown clearings the soil-charged waters of a river wound
their way down towards the sea. It was the commencement of the
scenery which is characteristic of Guria, a tract of virgin woodland
which clothes the spurs of the receding chain and the alluvial flats
and marshes of the coast. Rolling hills take the place of the abrupt
wall of rock; they are covered with a jungle of bush and little trees,
which is broken here and there by irregular patches planted with Indian
corn. Dark streams heavy with loam descend between high banks. Not
a village could we see, nor any human habitation; distant prospects
were obscured by a veil of mist. Yet the day was fairly fine, and, if
the clouds were deeply banked on the horizon, the zenith often burst
to pure blue. As we proceeded, the forest increased both in grandeur
and in luxuriance; clusters of magnificent trees rose from the bush
and above the brushwood, until the features of hill and spur became
lost beneath the lofty overgrowth and transformed to masses or ledges
of tall stems and spreading branches outlined against the sky. The
withered forks of lifeless trunks stood out in grim relief from this
ground of shadow, or were projected in weird tracery upon the field
of light--an eloquent proof that no human hand had yet disturbed the
natural order of these primeval woods. The sea was lost behind leafy
brakes festooned with luscious creepers, which flourish with almost
tropical development in this warm climate and upon this soaking
soil. Not a single road did we see; the stations are mere stages,
and the only sign of the presence of man was one of the long-legged
dappled pigs so common in Imeritia, which was trespassing on the line.
Such are the characteristics which broadly prevail between Kobulety
and Lanchkhuty, a space of some twenty-four miles. But we had not yet
reached the latter station, which is situated due north of the capital
of Guria, Ozurgeti, when new features were discovered in the scene. On
the left hand the view opened across an even country where the sappy
stems and reed-like forms and flowers of the maize-plants alternated
with stretches of unreclaimed bush; and in the distance a bold hill,
only partially wooded, projected into the plain from a long, vague
line of mountains which closed the horizon on the north. We felt that
these must surely be the spurs of Caucasus, and that the Phasis would
shortly be disclosed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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