Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
The weather was delightful; a cool air, a brilliant sun, a few
white clouds floating in the blue. Eagles, a small species, circled
against the heaven or alighted on grisly crags. The sides of these
low mountains are composed of a lava, dry and barren, which in
places is disposed in layers of conglomerate, like the masonry of a
Cyclopean wall. We passed the seventh verst-stone from Akhaltsykh,
having covered over 4 1/2 miles. A short space further and we were
opposite a Georgian village, placed on the hillside of the left bank.
Between the thirteenth and sixteenth verst-stones (8 1/2 and 10 1/2
miles) the range opens, and is seen, beyond a plain of about half a
mile in width, pursuing a direction from south-east towards north-west
on the right bank. On our left hand we passed a few miserable houses
which, we ascertained, were inhabited by Kurds. We entered a country of
bleak hummocks, where barren and yellow hills closed the view. Among
such surroundings lies the posting station of Rustav, 18 versts or
12 miles along our road. By half-past twelve o'clock we had changed
horses, having arrived a quarter of an hour before.
The characteristics of the landscape between Rustav and Khertvis
may be summarised in a few words. For awhile the bare, low mountains
again border the river on either side, at no great distance from the
shore. But they tend to circle in amphitheatres and to leave a respite
of even ground. Little rills descend from the heights above the valleys
and give birth to verdure and shade. The further we proceed, these
oases increase in extent, enhancing the contrast between sterile,
lonely walls of rock, and luscious gardens where bright birds flit
through the scene.
Thus on the left bank, shortly after leaving Rustav, the eye was
greeted by such welcome relief. A high ridge of grey rock descended
to the river, but rich verdure clothed its base. The lower slopes
were terraced with plantations of Indian corn, and among the stubble
herds of heifers grazed the sweet herbs. Rivulets started from the
very summit, where a grove of trees was outlined on the sky. The
falling water was diffused into a network of tiny channels, which fed
the fertile earth. Such were the outskirts of a Mussulman village,
of which the name is Gobet. The foreground, on our side of the river,
was strewn with boulders of volcanic rock. Large lizards darted from
cranny to cranny, and brilliant birds with blue breasts and yellow
collars took wing at our approach.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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