Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 2 of 2): The Turkish ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 2 of 2): The Turkish Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
These edifices are six in number: Surb Tiramayr (the mother of the
Master, i.e. Jesus Christ), Surb Vardan, Surb Paulos, Surb Neshan
or the token, so called from a relic of the Cross, Surb Sahak,
Surb Tsiranavor. The last is of almost tiny proportions, and is
named after the Virgin with the purple robes. A seventh chapel,
close to Surb Paulos, bears the name of Surb Petros, or St. Peter,
but was severely shaken by an earthquake a few years ago, and has
been partially destroyed to prevent it collapsing. High mud walls,
such as may be seen on the left of the photograph of the house
in Van (Fig. 127), enclose the courts in which the churches are
built. You enter through a low door of great weight after hammering
with a ponderous knocker. The most interesting of all is certainly
Surb Paulos; and the teachers in Yisusean, who accompanied me on my
visit, were inclined to ascribe it to the times of St. Thaddeus. I
see no reason to doubt that certain parts of the chapel date back to
an epoch before the advent of St. Gregory, when Christianity must
have flourished in Vaspurakan. Surb Paulos seems to have served
as a model to the other churches; and the chapel is approached
through the usual pronaos or church proper. The inside dimensions
of the chapel are 57 feet by 27 1/2 feet; and the thickness of the
stone wall on the west side, where it is capable of being measured,
is not less than 7 feet. Of rectangular shape, the disposition of
the interior is not abnormal. You have an apse on the east side,
preceded by a daïs or raised stage in stone; and the roof centres in
a conical dome of great depth and admirable masonry, in which a row of
loophole apertures admit a scanty light. The dome is supported by piers
adhering to the walls. There is not a trace of plaster or ornament in
the place; and the dark hue of the naked stone enhances the gloom. We
observed three blocks which had been built into the walls and were
inscribed with cuneiform characters. But they appeared to have been
hewn without any regard to the inscriptions, which must have suffered
considerable mutilation. Better treatment had evidently befallen a
large inscribed slab which had been used as a lintel or upper stone,
roofing a niche in a recess of the south wall. The arrowhead writing
was well preserved. In this same wall we admired a most beautiful
Armenian cross, carved in bold relief upon a stone panel 5 feet high
and 4 feet broad. We seemed to be able to read a date--409 of the
Armenian era or A.D. 960. My reader is already familiar with these
crosses (Fig. 59, Vol. I. p. 271); but I regret that the light in the
sanctuary was much too dim to enable me to photograph the most artistic
specimen of this form of ornament which I remember to have seen. [106]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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