The origin of the name of Mush is wrapped in obscurity. [153] It formed the capital of the old Armenian province of Taron under the rule of the princely family of the Mamikoneans. [154] At the present day it contains two considerable mosques with minarets, four churches of the Gregorian Armenians and one of the Catholics. The Gregorian churches are named Surb Marineh, Surb Kirakos, Surb Avetaranotz, and Surb Stephanos. None are of any size or of much interest. There are three fine khans in the neighbourhood of the bazar. Our host informed us that not less than thirty-six Hamidiyeh regiments had been enrolled in the sanjak; but he added that none had yet been constituted in the sanjaks of Bitlis, Sert and Genj. These four sanjaks compose the vilayet of Bitlis. The first portion of his statement was almost certainly false, even on a nominal basis. CHAPTER VIII FROM MUSH TO ERZERUM In travelling from Mush to Erzerum, you cross the block of the Armenian highlands from their southern margin almost to their northern verge. Should the season be that of summer, it is possible to perform the passage on a course nearly as straight as a bee-line. For the mountains which face the traveller from the depressions of this region are, for the most part, but the sides of a higher table surface over which he may ride for miles without drawing rein. But this higher surface is much too elevated to render the journey pleasant, or even safe, at the commencement or during the progress of an Armenian winter. It is more prudent to adhere to the great plains at a lower level, through which the tributaries to the Murad wind their way; and from these to cross to the deeply-eroded bed of the Upper Araxes, which affords a luxurious approach to the northern districts. This route once adopted, two deviations are suggested which will not lengthen the journey by many miles. The first is a visit to the ancient cloister of Surb Karapet (John the Baptist), on the northern border range of Mush plain; the second, a short sojourn in the ancient burgh of Hasan Kala, not far from Erzerum. The northern capital will be reached by convenient stages in six travelling days, the distance covered being about 160 miles. [155]