At home in FijiGordon Cumming, C. F. (Constance Frederica)
History
At home in Fiji
Gordon Cumming, C. F. (Constance Frederica)
Fiji; Folklore -- Fiji
There is a fine church here (just a large native house, thatched and
matted, with open doors all round it, which is by far the most suitable
style of architecture for this climate), and this morning there was a
crowded attendance. I stayed at home, knowing that the service would be
very long; and the sound of a voice, or voices, speaking continuously in
an unknown tongue, becomes exceedingly wearisome after a time, especially
when the novel interest of watching the undulating pavement of tawny
heads, brown backs, and white _sulus_ has worn off.
I told you how kindly the Langhams offered to call for me at Levuka,
and take me with them on this cruise in the mission-ship Jubilee, which
is a 50-ton schooner. We started from Nasova at daybreak on April 8th,
intending to go to the isle Nairai, but finding the wind favourable
for Koro came here instead. Mrs Langham and I were both very sick all
day, and very thankful when at sunset, we anchored off a village called
Nambuna, where the teacher gave us entire possession of his small but
tidy house, close to the sea, and embowered in tall plantains and
cocoa-palms, and, moreover, enclosed by a fence made of tree-fern stems.
Here we spent Palm Sunday, and had service under the shady _ndawa_
trees, which are like large walnut-trees, with young red leaves. It was
a very pretty scene. Also it was the first time I had been present at an
open-air celebration of the Holy Communion, and this devout congregation
of gentle savages, kneeling so reverently on the grassy sward, beside
the calm blue sea, made our Palm Sunday service for 1876 one much to
be remembered. In the evening we had an English service, to which came
several planters and their families; and we walked home with one lady
along the white shore in the clear bright moonlight. It was most lovely.
The foliage is much richer than on Ovalau; and there are such good paths
along the shore that riding would be delightful, if there were any horses.
We left Nambuna the following morning in a rowing-boat, but owing to
sundry delays lost the high tide, and only got on at all by most careful
steering through intricate patches of lovely coral. Every few minutes
we found ourselves in such shallow water that all the crew had to jump
overboard; Mr Langham and a friend did likewise, not expecting to go
above the knee, but before they could get in again they were over the
waist! Finally, we fairly stuck, and the boat had to wait for the tide,
while we were carried ashore, and walked on to the next village.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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