At home in FijiGordon Cumming, C. F. (Constance Frederica)
History
At home in Fiji
Gordon Cumming, C. F. (Constance Frederica)
Fiji; Folklore -- Fiji
From Narai we had a fine run over to this isle, which is a land of high
hills, deeply scored with valleys, wooded on one side, grassy on the
other (at least apparently so, really covered with tall reeds). They look
golden green as light misty showers pass over them while the sun shines.
A gusty wind sprang up just as we made the passage, and entailed a good
deal of beating before we could reach our anchorage off Sawaieke, which
is the chief town on this island. We had some difficulty in landing,
as the tide was low, leaving a broad expanse of mud; and the shore is
fringed with mangrove, which always implies rather a swampy situation.
We found cosy quarters in the house of Ratu Hosea, the native minister,
a chief by birth, and a fine man (at present suspended from his office
because he was so unfortunate as to box the ears of a very aggravating
wife, who happened to die soon afterwards; so of course evil tongues gave
him credit for having caused her death). In the church at Sawaieke all
the beams are covered with _tappa_, with a pattern of large stars—very
effective; and I was reminded of the “mortification boards” in Scotch
kirks by seeing a regular churchwarden’s record, stating that “the doors
and windows of this church cost 3000 yams!”
I greatly enjoyed strolling along the shore here. A lovely path leads
under great _eevie_ trees and through groves of cocoa-palms, with young
palms growing up so thickly under them as to form a network of fronds,
with an undergrowth of tall grasses, casting a light shade, through
which the sunlight flickered. All along the shore are little streams with
muddy banks, perforated with holes made by tiny crabs, prettier than
those we saw at Suva. Besides those with the one large scarlet claw, we
saw some with black back, green-spotted, others with scarlet back and
black body, some black and green, with all their claws and legs scarlet,
and some with bits of blue and white—most fascinating little creatures.
We caught some, in spite of the marvellous rapidity with which they
vanished.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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