Next day found us at Bau, the native capital, where, you know, I have already stayed with the Langhams; and the following morning a favourable wind brought me here in three hours (last time I was fourteen hours). Everything is fresh and cosy. Already Nasova is like a different place—tidy garden, and pretty things all about, and my own room does look so very nice with all its Fijian decorations. But of the humans, I found only Lady Gordon and the chicks, and Baron von Hügel, the others having gone in three different detachments, with all the native police, to reinforce the camp already established in the great isle; for there has been mischief brewing for long, and at last the wild heathen mountaineers, Kai Tholos, have made a descent on several Christian villages, burnt the houses, and murdered the inhabitants—chiefly old men, women, and children, who had hidden in a cave. The Christians made a good defence, and in one place thoroughly beat the aggressors. It is a nasty business anyhow; but we trust it is nearly over now. However, no one can tell, and of course every one is anxious. I return to find that a home worry has arisen. The nice Welsh nurse is actually going to marry the Spanish washerman, and as Lady Gordon had not bound her legally to stay, she has no redress! Luckily, Mrs Abbey is willing to undertake the place, in addition to her own already heavy work, though she has two children of her own. Such an accident is really a serious matter in a place like this, where good servants cannot possibly be replaced. We have just heard of the total wreck of the steamer Egmont, which brought us here from Sydney. You may remember that she was specially chartered to bring the Royal Engineers to this place. Colonel Pratt and almost all his men have gone to Suva to open up a road into the interior of the great isle. There seems a fate, however, about the removal of the capital. Nothing can be done till the best harbours have been surveyed; and the survey was stopped three months ago, in obedience to an imaginary law of hurricanes, and the surveying ship Reynard, Captain Dawson, sent back to the colonies. Now he returns only to have a relapse of severe illness as soon as he enters Fijian waters, and has to go straight away again. But it is time something was done. This place, “in which fever and sunstroke are unknown,” is just a sink of low fever—one case after another. Both Dr Cruikshank[34] and Dr Carew have had it very severely. The latter (attached to the Engineers) has been sent to the colonies to recruit. It is said that till three years ago it really was unknown—now it is making up for lost time.