After breakfast we rode to the base of another grand rock-mass—Vatu Mami—where a little colony of planters received us most cordially, and welcomed us to a real planter’s dinner, served in rough-and-ready style, but none the less acceptable, especially the invariable hot tea. Then we rode homeward, skirting the dark Kauvandra hills, and passing several villages more or less interesting from their situation. It was quite dark for the last hour, and we had several difficult creeks and gullies to cross, with banks rather like the side of a house; but the horses are so steady, and so perfectly used to this sort of ground, that they scrambled up and down like cats, and I had only to sit still and wonder what was going to happen next. Finally, we got home all safe, and found that Harry Leefe had arrived to take me back to Nananu. He was feasting on roast goat—one which our friend Mr Shinnock had most kindly brought over and killed during our absence. So we had a capital supper, with true hunger sauce. And now I may as well say good-night, as we start for Nananu at daybreak. * * * * * NANANU, _October 21_. DEAR NELL,—You see I am still here, very much at home, and quite happy. I find one becomes greatly enamoured of this sort of life. The weather is perfect, and there is a wonderful charm in the little isles, where the sea meets one at every turn, and from which we see such lovely morning and evening lights. The mainland is just far enough to be glorified; and I delight in the wide horizon which encompasses us. Last Tuesday we were on the highest ground, overlooking isles and coral-reefs, which intersect the blue deep water with lines and patches of vivid green, marking the shallows as clearly as if they were drawn on a map. We made a fire and cooked our tea in a “billy.”[47] Just as we had finished, H.M.S. Beagle hove in sight flying the Governor’s flag; so we hurried back, and arrived in time to welcome him and Captain Knollys. They were on their way to the camp at Nasauthoko, where Mr Le Hunte is now stationed; and they sailed the following morning. I am delighted to tell you that Mr Leefe is planning another expedition for me to the main isle. It certainly is most kind of him to take so much trouble, for every arrangement here involves many difficulties; and leaving home, even for a day, is very inconvenient. Still I do long to see something of the beautiful coast of which we had such tantalising glimpses on our way here. The first plan was, that we should go up by a small trading schooner which touched here yesterday, collecting produce; but at the last moment one of the precious Angora nannie-goats was found to be very ill, so Mr Leefe could not leave her. I regret to say she died this morning—a loss of £25, to say nothing of the value of her expected kid. They are such pretty refined creatures, and so tame, that we are all quite sad about this.