_New Year’s Morning, 1877._ I had written so far when my candle went out, so I sat in the dark listening to a real piper in the distance playing “The Campbells are Coming.” Then the clock struck midnight, and the Volunteer band marched down the street playing cheerily; and many bursts of anything but music arose on every side, proving the lungs of the people to be in exceedingly good condition. * * * * * DEVONSHIRE HOUSE, HOBSON STREET, _January 8_. We moved into these lodgings as soon as possible, and have had some pleasant drives and walks. Auckland lies, as it were, in a cluster of extinct volcanoes. The largest and most perfect specimen is Rangitoto—a great triple cone rising from a base of black lava, very rough and uninviting. The principal crater, near the town, is now known as Mount Eden, and its steep grassy slopes are dotted with pleasant English houses. On its summit there are still traces of the old Maori fortification, in artificially levelled terraces, surrounding the deep crater, in which a whole tribe might lie concealed in case of attack. I sat on the edge of the crater, and sketched the town looking towards three volcanoes. The country all round is dotted with these, but most of them are insignificant little hills. Of course they give great interest to the town, but it is not pretty, though the harbour is pleasant. It reminds me of some towns in the south of England, with the addition of a good land-locked harbour. All the beauty lies further south. The primeval forest which formerly clothed this now barren land has wholly disappeared. What the woodman’s axe spared has been swept away by ruthless burning. To-day we are going to stay with Sir George Grey on his island-home at Kawau. Mr Whittaker, who is now Prime Minister, has offered Lady Gordon the beautiful Government steamer Hinemoa, to take us there. On our way we are to call at the Wai Wera hot springs, which are much celebrated as a cure for rheumatism and other ailments. But though they lie in a pretty bay, the waters themselves have been imprisoned in baths; and a large hotel is built close by to accommodate a hundred patients. I am told, however, that there are some marvellously beautiful geysers and terraces of natural baths somewhere in the Maori country, not very far from here. I have not yet met any one who has seen them; for, as you know, people never do go to see things near home, but I hope to find my way there ere long. * * * * * ISLE OF KAWAU, TWENTY MILES FROM AUCKLAND, _January 9_.