Of course to me this glimpse of true Maori life has been most interesting. Afterwards the fishers came to see Sir George, for whom they have a great affection and respect, and with good cause. His knowledge of their language is said to be quite perfect. He has collected a great number of their old songs and legends, and published them; and now a sect called Hau-Hau, who have thrown off their early faith in Christianity, and made up an amalgamated religion for themselves, read this book in their churches as being the Maori Bible, and more edifying to them than the legends of Syria. It is so strange to hear Sir George tell of all the changes he has seen here since the days when he selected the sites of the settlements, each of which is now a great city—Christchurch for the English Church party, and Dunedin for the Scots. When he first knew the latter it was the home of one old sailor. Later he visited the place and found a flourishing village. After fifteen years, when he returned from the Cape of Good Hope, about 7000 people came out several miles to meet him, and took him by a back way to the great town hall, built on the site where first he had pitched his tent; then they led him to the front, where he was received by upwards of a thousand well-dressed ladies. * * * * * IN AN OLD MAORI PAH, KAWAU, _Sunday, Jan. 28, 1877_. DEAREST EISA,—The day is so lovely that I have brought my writing up to this pleasant old fort, and am sitting on the grassy top of a yellow sandstone cliff which rises sheer from a sea so clear that, as I look over the precipices, I can see the white-breasted cormorants (the _kawau_) dive for fish, and swim after them under water for ever so far. The only symptom of fighting which remains on this peaceful spot is a deep ditch which runs round the land side; but every marked headland hereabouts has been a _pah_ or fort, where in old days tattooed warriors fought to the death. Those on this island were noted pirates, and at last all the neighbouring tribes united to destroy them. It is peaceful enough now, but matters are by no means over secure on the mainland.[51] The state of things existing in this country ts most extraordinary. Imagine that, within twenty miles of Auckland, there is a vast tract of land on which no white man dare set foot. Only outlaws, murderers, and suchlike, are there allowed to take refuge, and justice cannot touch them. Sometimes out of respect to Sir George, they will give a personal friend of his permission to travel through the country; but when he sent Mr Maudslay up last week, they turned him back.