On Sunday all work stops, and the whole population turn out, well dressed and orderly. There are churches of every conceivable denomination—all well filled. The Church of England, where we were on Sunday, is large and handsome, with a £300 stained-glass window. A very fine naval reserve corps, and a military cadet corps, were present (all miners); and there is a strong volunteer corps of Scotchmen (also miners). Altogether, I never saw a more satisfactory community than this big baby mining city; and having the beautiful sea is such an advantage—steamers always coming and going. I cannot help comparing the advantages of life in New Zealand with those of poor colonists in Fiji: why, in the matter of house-rent alone,—Captain Fraser bought this pretty house, with good garden and grounds, for £400; whereas at Levuka the Havelocks were paying £218 a-year rent for a much smaller house, with no garden to speak of. Captain Fraser has just told me that he will make arrangements to enable me to ride across country into the wonderful volcanic district which I am longing to see. My luggage will return to Auckland by one steamer, and go thence by another steamer to Tauranga, where I shall find it, so I can only keep as much as can be strapped to my side-saddle. When the plan was first suggested, I was told the tracks would be impassable and the ride impracticable; but Captain Fraser says that if I can stand some rough work, I can do it well enough. So he is taking no end of trouble to plan a pleasant expedition for me, and make my way easy; he will lend me his own horses, and is writing to his friends all along my route to request them to show me hospitality, and act escort from one point to the next. So next Tuesday I am to go by steamer up the river Thames to Ohinemuri, and thence ride to the house of Mr Allom, who is here now, but returns home to-morrow, and who will put me up for a night; and next day he and his daughter will ride with me to Kati Kati, a new Irish settlement of colonists from Belfast, headed by Mr Vesey Stewart. The colony includes one Englishman—namely, Arthur Fisher, Bishop Eden’s grandson! How I do stumble on home-links everywhere! He is to be electrified by a telegram, requesting him to meet us at the ford and guide us over. How astonished he will be! All further stages of the road are planned with equal care, so I have the prospect of a very delightful expedition. * * * * * KATI KATI, _March 29_.