At home in FijiGordon Cumming, C. F. (Constance Frederica)
History
At home in Fiji
Gordon Cumming, C. F. (Constance Frederica)
Fiji; Folklore -- Fiji
There is only one other house here, the home of Mr Joski, a
sugar-planter. His family are very kind, and do all in their power to
make us comfortable. There is a large sugar-mill here, and the near
hills are covered with cane; but this is, unfortunately, one of the
districts where sugar has failed, and the planters are hopelessly ruined.
It is so sad to see the deserted sugar-mill, and the fields of cane that
are not considered worth cutting. It was absurd folly ever to plant cane
at this place, the soil being scanty and utterly unsuitable. But this is
one of the sites which runs the best chance of being chosen as the new
capital (of the pauper colony), in which case the landowners will some
day be rich.
This harbour is simply lovely. From the flat (which is the site of the
town in the air) we look across to hills in form like those of Torridon
in Ross-shire, but covered with densest tropical vegetation, and watered
by many rivers, each lovelier than the last. There are four of these
quite near together, and every afternoon we explore one or other in the
Governor’s charming boat, rowed by half-a-dozen brown beings with great
fuzzy heads, and wearing a becoming dress of white, trimmed with crimson.
This morning I had a good walk in the early morning to get a sketch
from a lovely site. Then after breakfast we rowed up one of the rivers,
and lunched on a grassy bank under a shady citron-tree, as far up as we
could take the boat. The vegetation was too exquisite. We found several
orchids new to us, and a lovely pink-and-white wax-like creeper. I never
saw such wealth of ferns of every sort and kind, specially hundreds of
tall tree-ferns, with stems about thirty feet, and masses of one like a
gigantic Osmunda. I never can find seeds of the grandest, but I send you
such as I have.
We had an amusing expedition yesterday. I started early with Miss Joski,
and our route lay along the top of the ridge, tall reeds far over our
heads. Before we were aware of its approach, a tropical shower came on,
and we were drenched (of course my dear shiny waterproof kept me dry, but
my companion was soaked), so we made for a house where a good old Irish
couple lived, with a troop of babies. They were just getting up. But in
we marched, and prayed for dry clothes; and the good woman clothed Miss
Joski from head to foot, and supplied me with dry stockings and boots.
Then we joined our picnic breakfast to theirs. They insisted on killing
a chicken in our honour; and our mutton sandwiches were a rare prize in
a district where butcher-meat is unattainable. By this time the day was
glorious, and we sketched till afternoon.
Such a view, and such a flight of stairs down to the sea—a quarter of a
mile, and almost perpendicular!
To-morrow early we all start for the Rewa, another district, where there
is a great native gathering to meet the Governor. Half of the charm of
wandering in these mountains is the knowledge that two years ago we
should certainly have been eaten!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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