At home in FijiGordon Cumming, C. F. (Constance Frederica)
History
At home in Fiji
Gordon Cumming, C. F. (Constance Frederica)
Fiji; Folklore -- Fiji
Starting from Suva in a head wind, about six hours’ hard rowing brought
us to the Rewa, which is certainly a very fine river—the largest of the
main island, Viti Levu, and navigable for fifty miles. It receives the
waters of various mountain-streams (navigable only by canoes), and itself
becomes so large a body of water, that, ere reaching the town of Rewa,
its width is about equal to that of the Thames at London Bridge. Here it
divides into a network of streams, and enters the sea by many mouths, all
bordered with the monotonous green of the mangrove, which overspreads the
dreary swamp with its extraordinary and intricate network of roots. We
passed through some miles of this strange mangrove country, starting an
innumerable number of wild duck, and at last reached Rewa,[21] which is
a large village of the invariable thatched houses. Here we found a great
gathering of the people to receive the Governor, on his first visit to
this town; and as his boat approached, the river-banks were thronged with
native chiefs and their followers, all squatting on the ground, in the
correct attitude of respect—for Fijian etiquette prohibits an inferior
from standing in presence of a superior, as strictly as it forbids him
passing behind him.
So great a concourse of people had rarely, if ever, been seen at Rewa:
it was calculated that nearly 5000 were present, a number the more
remarkable as the ravages of the measles last spring were peculiarly felt
in this district, where it is computed that 8000 perished, including no
less than ninety teachers, all carefully trained men,—a loss which cannot
easily be replaced.
Great were the preparations for the native festivities on the morrow, and
you can imagine my dismay on learning that, owing to the irregularity of
posts, and the day for this ceremony having been repeatedly deferred, Mr
Langham had made all his arrangements for starting from Rewa that very
day. And, in truth, we had not landed five minutes, when the mission boat
arrived from Bau. Complicated arrangements had been made for teachers
and people to come from distant points and meet us at different villages
on each day of the week, so that delay was impossible. Consequently
I was obliged to give up one thing or the other, which was intensely
aggravating; but, on weighing both, the expedition into the interior
was voted the more important; and so, with many regrets, I turned away
from Rewa and its picturesque crowds, merely halting long enough to get
some tea from Mrs Webb at the ever-hospitable Wesleyan mission station.
Then we embarked in the large mission boat,—Mr and Mrs Langham and
myself, rowed by half-a-dozen stalwart young students from the training
institution at Bau.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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