We always occupy what I may call the “company bedroom;” for though the whole floor of the house is alike covered with mats, the best are reserved for the upper end, which is generally raised about a foot, forming a sort of dais for the use of the principal persons present, and often carpeted with a pile of fine mats. This is invariably given up to us, and here, as I told you, we hang up our mosquito-curtains, and with the help of a few mats and plaids quickly rig up our simple tents. The other end of the room is generally crowded all day. Happily most of the natives clear out at night; but so long as the rare spectacle of three white faces is to be seen we cannot wonder at the interest created, one which, I am bound to say, is reciprocal. Many of our visitors walk for miles across the mountains, bringing us presents of food; for, however poor they may be themselves, the customs of Fiji require that the utmost hospitality should be shown to strangers; and in the case of such honoured guests as a missionary and his party, every care must be taken that they, at least, shall find no lack of whatever the villages can supply. After spending a week on the Wai Nimbooco we returned to the junction, and thence turned up the course of the other stream, the Wai Nimala, and at sunset reached this town. We were greatly tantalised by the charming position of the teacher’s house, on a somewhat isolated hill, commanding a grand view; but, as a matter of policy, we had to stay at the chief’s house, in the very middle of the village, and felt it close and stuffy, though it is a large house, very well built. Eight large trees form the main pillars, while upwards of one hundred fine tree-ferns have been sacrificed to make the small black pillars on either side. The walls are of double reeds, crossed; very beautiful patterns of fine sinnet-work (_i.e._, coloured string), on the lintels, and hanging curtains of long grass. The chief himself is ill, lying before a blazing fire, which, with a thermometer at about 80°, is scarcely our idea of comfort. The only thing he seemed to enjoy is an occasional bowl of very sweet tea, which Mrs L. makes for him, and which is a very great luxury; though to us the lack of milk is a continual drawback. Sometimes we make cream by grating cocoa-nut and squeezing it through a cloth; but though delicious for very occasional use, it is so rich that we very quickly take a strong aversion to it, and prefer to do without. Occasionally we get an egg, which, beaten up, is really an excellent substitute.