At the Court of the Amîr: A NarrativeGray, John Alfred
History
At the Court of the Amîr: A Narrative
Gray, John Alfred
'Abd al-Rahman Khan, Amir of Afghanistan, -1901; Afghanistan -- History
Here the Armenian and I dismounted, and I walked by the side of the
elder Prince’s palanquin: the Armenian came behind. The Prince’s
Kaffir Page boys were there, his tutor, and other young men, officers
of his household. I had never been so near the Mosque before. They
say it is about two hundred years old. It is truly Oriental in style,
with cupola, pierced stone (lattice work) windows, and minarets. The
blue-stone--or porcelain--bricks of which it is built are of different
tints, the contrasting tints being arranged in patterns. In the
immediate grounds, or square, of the Temple, were a number of shops, or
booths, where they sold handkerchiefs, porcelain articles, and strings
of beads, or rosaries. In the front of each shop was an awning of rush
matting, supported on two poles. The sun shone brilliantly, and in the
distance the mountains glimmered shadowy blue in the heated air. The
crowds of people, and the shopkeepers, salaamed as the Princes went by.
We marched through and on into the Park of Mazar--the Chahar Bagh. The
park is about a mile in width each way. We went along the paths under
the trees till we reached a large open space, where I found there
was to be a wrestling contest. At one end of the space was a mound or
platform, about six feet above the level. On it were spread carpets;
and supported on poles was a brilliantly-coloured awning to keep off
the glare of the sun.
[Sidenote: The Spectators at the Wrestling-match.]
There were two chairs for the Princes and a chair was given to me. The
guard was arranged round, the Page boys stood in a line behind us, and
the others, including the Armenian and the tutor, were seated on the
ground.
The tutor was a smart young fellow, very polished in manner, who used
to cheat at cards in the most amusing and barefaced way. I had met
him before. Around the open space were crowds of spectators, all in
national costume: most of them with white turbans, long loose coats
of various colours, and white, baggy pyjamas, tight at the ankle. The
front ranks were seated, cross-legged, on the ground; behind them were
rows standing. The ground sloped upwards for about three feet, so
that all could see. Forming a background were the trees, all covered
with green, for the summer comes rapidly in Turkestan; the roses were
blooming in April.
First, the band played. The musicians stood in the centre, their
musical instruments being drums and pipes, or flageolets. The latter
were large, black instruments, bound with brass, and with a tone not
unlike that of the bagpipes.
They played an Afghan tune, most quaint to my ear, and the drums beat
rhythmically, but with a rhythm quite different from anything I had
heard in Europe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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