At the Court of the Amîr: A NarrativeGray, John Alfred
History
At the Court of the Amîr: A Narrative
Gray, John Alfred
'Abd al-Rahman Khan, Amir of Afghanistan, -1901; Afghanistan -- History
Kabul is famous all over Central Asia for the manufacture of the
postîn or sheepskin pelisse. While riding along the bazaar running
from the wooden bridge south, I used to wonder at one place what the
faint disagreeable smell was due to. I found on enquiry that there
was a manufactory of postîns there. I have not seen the whole process
of tanning. The skin of the sheep or lamb with the wool on it is
cleaned and scraped, then soaked in the river and pegged out in the
sun to dry; afterwards it is tanned yellow with pomegranate rind. The
leather is beautifully soft, and it is usually embroidered artistically
with yellow silk. The wool is, of course, worn inside. The better
ones are trimmed at the collar and cuffs with astrakhan. There are
several different kinds of sheepskin postîns. The long one reaching
from shoulder to ankle, with ample folds that you wrap yourself up in
on a winter night: there is nothing more cosy and warm to sleep in.
The sleeves are very long and are more for ornament than use. These
are but little embroidered, they cost from fifteen to thirty rupees.
There is a short one with sleeves, which is elaborately embroidered.
This is worn in the winter by the soldiers--cavalrymen, for instance,
if they can afford the necessary ten or fifteen rupees. Similar but
cheaper ones with less beautiful wool and no embroidery, can be bought
for four or five rupees. There is the waistcoat postîn of lamb’s
wool, which is made without sleeves, this costs two rupees six annas
Kabuli, or half-a-crown English. These waistcoat postîns and the long
sleeping postîns are used by all classes, rich and poor. The others
are used only by the poorer classes, the peasants and the soldiers. A
gentleman or a man of position would no more think of putting one on,
were it ever so beautiful and elaborate in its embroidery, than would
a resident of the west of London think of appearing in the “pearlies”
and velvet embroidered coat of the coster. The rich men wear, in the
winter, coats of cashmere, velvet or cloth, lined with beautiful furs
from Bokhara and other parts of Asiatic Russia.
[Sidenote: Furs: Their Cost.]
The most valuable fur that is imported I have not seen, only the Amîr
wears it, and he rarely; from the description they gave me I conclude
it is sable. The next most valuable is the “Khuz,” a species of Marten.
There are two kinds, the Khuz i Zulmati, which is dark, and the Khuz i
Mahtabi, which is much lighter and of an inferior quality. These can
be bought sewn together in the sheet, either with or without the tails
of the animals attached. There were twenty-four skins in the sheet I
bought. The shopman asked £10 for it, but he let me have it the next
day for £6.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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