At the Court of the Amîr: A NarrativeGray, John Alfred
History
At the Court of the Amîr: A Narrative
Gray, John Alfred
'Abd al-Rahman Khan, Amir of Afghanistan, -1901; Afghanistan -- History
In the cap shops there are rows of small conical caps, hanging on pegs
and on bars across the top of the shop. The Afghan turban is wound
round the cap which is jammed on the back of the head. If put more
forwards the weight of the turban causes a painful pressure on the
forehead.
There are several different kinds of caps. The Kabul cap is thickly
quilted with cotton-wool. Inside, at the top, a little roll of paper
enclosed in silk is sewn. This is supposed to have a sentence from
the Koran written on it to protect the wearer from harm. I opened a
roll one day to see what was written, but found the paper blank. The
best caps are embroidered all over with gold thread from Benares. Some
are but little embroidered, have simply a star at the top, and others
not at all. Some are made of velvet, and some of cloth. Those from
Turkestan are not quilted. They are not so heavy as the Kabul caps, are
of very bright colours, and are worn indoors or at night. The caps are
of all prices, from three or four pice to fifteen rupees. The lungis,
or turbans, are also of many different kinds: the commonest being
cotton dyed blue with indigo--these are of native make: or of white
cotton or muslin from India. A better kind are of blue or grey cotton,
embroidered at the ends with gold thread, in wider or narrower bars,
according to the price. These come from Peshawur, and they look very
handsome on a tall dark-skinned Afghan. Others are from Cashmere, most
beautifully embroidered, and are fawn-coloured, turquoise-blue, black,
green, or white. The ordinary length of a lungi is nine yards; the
cashmere, being thicker, are not so long. The only white cashmere lungi
I ever saw was the Amîr’s. He gave it me one day; but that is a story I
will relate further on.
In the cap shops are also Kabul silk handkerchiefs for sale. They are
of beautiful colours--purple, crimson, and green. I do not know what
dyes are used, but they are not fast, they wash out; and the silk is
of poor quality, not to be compared with English or French silk. In
these shops, too, are gold brocades of various kinds, mostly from Delhi
or Agra. Some, however, are made in Kabul, the design being copied
from English or European embroidery that has been imported. Many of
the workers imitate European embroidery with wonderful exactness,
though they do not seem to be able to originate any new designs. If one
bolder than the rest attempts to do so, the design is greatly wanting
in beauty of outline. The brocades are used for tea-cloths, and by the
Amîr and richer men for table-covers. The skill of these men is also
called into use to decorate the dresses of ladies, and the tunics of
pages and gentlemen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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