At the Court of the Amîr: A NarrativeGray, John Alfred
History
At the Court of the Amîr: A Narrative
Gray, John Alfred
'Abd al-Rahman Khan, Amir of Afghanistan, -1901; Afghanistan -- History
In a tailor’s shop you see one man sitting on the ground hard at
work with a sewing-machine, another cutting out or stitching. There
are no ready made clothes in a tailor’s shop, these are to be bought
elsewhere. A rich man has, as a rule, a tailor attached to his
establishment. Those less rich having procured their material send
for a tailor from the bazaar. He cuts out the material in front of
the employer and takes away the garment to his shop to make up. This
is a check upon the tailor, so that there can be no purloining of
material. Ready-made clothes, new or secondhand, are for sale in many
shops. English coats of all kinds sell readily, especially old military
uniforms. One day a man walked into the hospital evidently thinking
himself rather smart. For the moment I was startled: I thought he was
an Englishman. He was dressed in the complete costume of a railway
guard.
The costume of the hillmen and peasants is the same as that worn by
the Khyberi Pathans, which I have described. An Afghan in typical
native town costume--say a mirza, or clerk--is dressed somewhat more
carefully than the Pathan. He wears the loose oriental trousers, or
pyjamas, gathered in at the waist and hanging in multitudinous folds
draping from the hip to the inner side of the knee and ankle, the band
at the ankle fitting somewhat closely. The native shoes with turned
up pointed toes are worn without socks, that is, unless the wearer
is wealthy. The embroidered camise, or shirt, falls over the pyjamas
nearly to the knee. A waistcoat with sleeves is worn reaching a little
below the waist and slit at the hip. Finally, a loose robe or coat
worn unfastened and with long sleeves, reaches midway between the knee
and ankle. The waistcoat is of velvet or cloth, quilted and generally
embroidered with gold. The coat is of thinner material, and, as a
rule, of native cloth. The townsmen, however, generally, though not
always, modify the native costume with European innovations. As a rule
the higher they rise in the social scale the more Europeanized they
become--in costume if in little else. The Afghans, though invariably
spoken of as religious fanatics, are far less “conservative” than the
Mahomedans of India. You never see one of the latter with an English
hat on: a very great many refuse to adopt even European boots. In
Afghanistan the readiness to become Europeanized, at any rate in
appearance, probably depends upon the personal influence of the Amîr.
After European weapons and knives--these are readily adopted by all
who can afford them--the first thing taken is the belt with a buckle,
instead of the cummerbund or waistshawl. It is, however, open to
question whether this innovation is an improvement, for in a climate
with such great variations of temperature as that of Afghanistan the
cummerbund is an excellent protection to the abdominal organs. Socks
are readily adopted even by the conservative. Then come European
coats, which are worn by a great many of the townsmen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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