At the Court of the Amîr: A NarrativeGray, John Alfred
History
At the Court of the Amîr: A Narrative
Gray, John Alfred
'Abd al-Rahman Khan, Amir of Afghanistan, -1901; Afghanistan -- History
“I not know English word snake and dragon; I must say some animal, and
‘cow’ came into head, therefore I say _cow_.” The dragon I found to be
a curious shaped rocky hill formed in the course of ages by the deposit
of carbonate of lime from a spring that was still bubbling there.
[Illustration: COLOSSAL FIGURE, “SA-MAMA,” IN THE BAMIAN
VALLEY.
_From a photograph by Arthur Collins, F.G.S._]
[Sidenote: The Colossal Figures.]
This valley was full of surprises, for the next day we came up with
three colossal figures, cut in relief on the face of the mountains (the
Hindu Kush range) on the north side of the valley. These figures, they
said, were statues carved by order of Jelaluddin Shah, of himself,
his wife and son (Jelaluddin lived about the year 1230). Away on the
other side of the valley we could dimly see on the heights the ruins
of a deserted city--“the city of Jelaluddin.” We were too far off to
see anything characteristic in the ruins, but it is possible that
the city belongs to the same era as that of Zohàk-i-Marhan, a few
miles further down the valley. The figures, it is probable, are of
Buddhist origin, and date back to the time which preceded the Mahomedan
conquest of Afghanistan, when Buddhism was the dominant religion of
the country. The largest of the three figures, which has the local
name of “Sa-mama,” is 173 feet in height. The smaller, “Sul-sol,” 120
feet, and the smallest not more than 80 feet. They resemble in style
other figures of Buddha. The drapery, moulded and fastened on with
pegs, shows no sign of classical influence, arranged, as it is, in
stiff conventional folds. These are in places broken away, showing
the peg holes. To give an idea of their relative size, I saw a man on
horseback ride up to one figure--he and his horse together were not so
high as the toe. The figures are hollow, and there are steps leading
up to chambers inside the body and head. These are used by the Amîr
as storehouses for grain. On the wall of the chamber, in the head of
the largest figure, are the indistinct marks of a fresco painting, of
which Mr. Collins, the geologist, managed, some years afterwards, to
get an imperfect photograph. It is, however, impossible to make out the
subject, and I heard no story as to when or by whom it was painted. In
the face of the mountain, by the side of the figures, are chambers or
caves hollowed out of the rock. Some of these are beautifully cut, with
domed roofs--to use the words of Mr. Collins, who examined them--in
“hard conglomerate rock, and are coated with a layer of lustrous
bitumen.” Doubtless, they were used as temples and dwelling-places for
the Buddhist priests. Many of the other caves are in “soft sandstone
and conglomerate.” These could be easily cut, the hard conglomerate
forming a natural roof for rooms dug in the softer sandstone beneath.
Presumably they are of later origin than those cut in the harder
material. Narrow, almost impossible staircases lead up to the caves,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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