Audubon and His Journals, Volume 1Audubon, John James
History
Audubon and His Journals, Volume 1
Audubon, John James
Audubon, John James, 1785-1851 -- Diaries; Birds -- North America; Naturalists -- United States -- Diaries
_Manchester, October 14, Mr. Dockray's House, Hardwick._ By five
o'clock this morning I was running by the Derwent; everything was
covered with sparkling congealed dew. The fog arising from the little
stream only permitted us to see its waters when they made a ripple
against some rock. The vale was all mist, and had I not known where I
was, and heard the notes of the Jackdaws above my head, I might have
conceived myself walking through a subterraneous passage. But the sun
soon began to dispel the mist, and gradually the tops of the trees,
the turrets of the castle, and the church pierced through, and stood
as if suspended above all objects below. All was calm till a bell
struck my ear, when I soon saw the long files of women and little
girls moving towards Arkwright's Mills. Almost immediately we started
for Bakewell, and breakfasted at the Rutland Arms. Proceeding we
changed our route, and made for the well known watering place,
Buxton, still in Derbyshire. The country here is barren, rocky, but so
picturesque that the want of trees is almost atoned for. The road
winds along a very narrow valley for several miles, bringing a vast
variety of detached views before us, all extremely agreeable to the
sight. The scantiness of vegetable growth forces the cattle to risk
much to obtain food, and now and then when seeing a bull, on bent knee
with outstretched neck, putting out his tongue to seize the few
grasses hanging over the precipices, I was alarmed for his safety. The
Hawk here soars in vain; after repeated rounds he is forced to abandon
the dreary steep, having espied only a swift Kingfisher. Suddenly the
view was closed, a high wall of rock seemed to put an end to our
journey, yet the chaise ran swiftly down-hill, and turning a sharp
angle afforded delight to our eyes. Here we alighted and walked to
view the beauties around at our leisure, and we reached the large inn,
the Crescent, where I met the American consul, my friend Mr. Maury,
who has visited this place regularly for twenty-five years. We had
what my friends called a luncheon; I considered it an excellent
dinner, but the English eat heartily. On our resuming our journey a
fine drizzle set in, and as we neared Manchester the air became thick
with coal smoke, the carts, coaches, and horsemen gradually filled the
road, faces became less clean and rosy, and the children had none of
the liveliness found amongst those in the Derbyshire Hills. I dreaded
returning to the town, yet these days among the beauties of England in
such delightful society are enough to refresh one after years of
labor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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