Audubon and His Journals, Volume 1Audubon, John James
History
Audubon and His Journals, Volume 1
Audubon, John James
Audubon, John James, 1785-1851 -- Diaries; Birds -- North America; Naturalists -- United States -- Diaries
walks crowded with persons come to see the regatta to-morrow.
_Paris, September 4._ I arrived here this morning at seven o'clock,
and I assure thee, my Lucy, that I and all my companions were pleased
to get rid of the diligence, and the shocking dust that tormented us
during our whole journey. We left Dover at one, on Tuesday, 2d; the
wind blew sharply, and I felt that before long the sea would have evil
effects on me, as it always has. We proceeded towards Calais at a good
rate, going along the shores of England until opposite the French
port, for which we then made direct, and landed after three and a half
hours' beating against wind and water. As soon as we landed we left
our luggage and passports with a Commissionaire, and went to dine at
Hotel Robart, where we had been recommended. Our still sickly bodies
were glad to rest, and there our passports were returned to us. I was
much tickled to read that my complexion was _copper red_; as the
Monsieur at the office had never seen me, I suppose the word American
suggested that all the natives of our country were aborigines. We then
entered the diligence, a vehicle ugly and clumsy in the extreme, but
tolerably comfortable unless over-crowded, and it travelled from six
to seven miles an hour, drawn generally by five horses, two next the
coach, and three abreast before those; the driver rides on the near
wheel-horse dressed precisely like the monkeys in shows of animals.
Calais is a decaying fortified town; the ditches are partly filled
with earth, and I cannot tell why there should exist at this time a
drawbridge. As we proceeded it did not take much time to see already
many differences between France and England. I will draw no parallel
between these countries, I will merely tell thee what I saw. The
country is poorly cultivated, although the land is good. No divisions
exist to the eye, no cleanly trimmed hedges, no gates, no fences; all
appeared to me like one of the old abandoned cotton plantations of the
South. I remarked that there were more and taller trees than in
England, and nearly the whole road was planted like the avenue to a
gentleman's house. The road itself was better than I had expected,
being broad, partly macadamized, and partly paved with square stones;
I found it much alike during the whole journey. Night coming on we
lost the means of observation for a time, and stopped soon after dark
for refreshment, and had some excellent coffee. I assure thee, Lucy,
that coffee in France is certainly better than anywhere else. We
passed through St. Omer, and a little farther on saw the lights of the
fires from an encampment of twelve thousand soldiers. Breakfast was
had at another small village, where we were sadly annoyed by beggars.
The country seems _very poor_; the cottages of the peasants are
wretched mud huts. We passed through the Departments of Artois and
Picardy, the country giving now and then agreeable views. We dined at
Amiens, where the cathedral externally is magnificent.
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