Audubon and His Journals, Volume 1Audubon, John James
History
Audubon and His Journals, Volume 1
Audubon, John James
Audubon, John James, 1785-1851 -- Diaries; Birds -- North America; Naturalists -- United States -- Diaries
_Sunday, September 7._ The traveller who visits France without seeing
a fete, such as I have seen this day at St. Cloud, leaves the country
unacquainted with that species of knowledge best adapted to show the
manners of a people. St. Cloud is a handsome town on the Seine, about
five miles below Paris, built in horseshoe form on the undulating
hills of this part of the country. These hills are covered with woods,
through which villas, cottages, and chateaux emerge, and give life to
the scene. On the west side of the village, and on its greatest
elevation, stands the Palace of the Kings, the Emperors, and the
people. I say the people, because they are allowed to see the interior
every day. With Parker, I took a cab directly after breakfast to the
_barriere des bons hommes_, and walked the remaining distance, say
three miles. We had the Seine in view most of the way, and crossed it
on a fine iron bridge, one end of which forms the entrance to St.
Cloud, in front of which the river winds. We reached the gates of the
palace, and found they were not opened till twelve o'clock; but a
sergeant offered to show us the King's garden,--an offer we accepted
with pleasure. The entrance is by an avenue of fine trees, their tops
meeting over our heads, and presenting, through the vista they made, a
frame for a beautiful landscape. We passed several pieces of water,
the peaceful abode of numerous fish, basking on the surface; swans
also held their concave wings unfurled to the light breeze--orange
trees of fair size held their golden fruit pendent--flowers of every
hue covered the borders, and a hundred statues embellished all with
their well-modelled forms. So unmolested are the birds that a Green
Woodpecker suffered my inspection as if in the woods of our dear, dear
America. At the right time we found ourselves in the King's
antechamber, and then passed through half a dozen rooms glittering
with richest ornaments, painted ceilings, large pictures, and lighted
by immense windows; all, however, too fine for my taste, and we were
annoyed by the _gens d'armes_ watching us as if we were thieves. It
was near two o'clock when we left, the weather beautiful, and heat
such as is usually felt in Baltimore about this season. The population
of Paris appeared now to flock to St. Cloud; the road was filled with
conveyances of all sorts, and in the principal walk before the Palace
were hundreds of _petits marchands_, opening and arranging their
wares. Music began in different quarters, groups lay on the grass,
enjoying their repasts; every one seemed joyous and happy. One thing
surprised me: we were at St. Cloud ten hours,--they told us fifty
thousand (?) were there, and I saw only three women of noticeable
beauty; yet these short brunettes are animated and apparently
thoughtless, and sing and dance as if no shadow could ever come over
them. At four o'clock all was in full vigor; the sounds of horns and
bugles drew us towards a place where we saw on a platform a party of
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