World War, 1914-1918 -- Australia; World War, 1914-1918 -- Campaigns -- Palestine
Except that there is greater diversity of peoples—both buyers and
sellers—the bazaars of Damascus are much like those of the Mousky. There
are the same well-defined areas for specific commodities; the same
little cubicles for shops, where vendors squat and “reach for things”;
there is the same voluble haggling—the same conversations carried on in
tones that you would first mistake for quarrelsome; there are the same
crying, peripatetic vendors of _limonade_, quoit-shaped cakes and
toffee; the shoe-blacks are here, but they are ahead of Cairo, with
their gongs to attract the uncleanly-shod. There is a more incessant
stream of laden donkeys through the bazaars here. In Cairo the donkeys
are chiefly for pleasure riding; here they are mercantile, over-laden
with the striped sacks of grain and fabric. There are additions to the
bazaars of Cairo in the goldsmiths’ bazaar, the sweets bazaar. The
goldsmiths work with their blowpipes and tiny forges and tiny tools,
moulding and fashioning. It is curious to see the workshop as part of
the sale-shop. The belts, brooches, rings and trays exposed for sale in
a showcase were made two yards away by that cunning Oriental fashioner
squatting on his haunches. The sweets bazaar tempts you hideously.
Eastern nutted sweets and Turkish-delight and toffees look as well as
they taste. Mere assorted chocolates—such as you get at Groppi’s—are
crude by comparison. There are great serpentine coils of Turkish-delight
lurking in icing-sugar—nut toffee that is all nuts—none of your
miserable paucity of nuts such as one gets in English almond-rock: nuts
form the matrix here.... But enough of that; here, if ever, you are
tempted to generate a liver the size of your hat.
Public baths abound in the heart of the bazaars. Fronting the street is
the final, open, divaned, cooling-off room—an amphitheatre of couches
upholstered with a kind of gay-coloured towelling. A fountain plays in
the midst. The bathed sit swaying in the ecstasy of reaction from the
steam, with closed eyes. No Roman ever bathed more voluptuously. No one
minds your going in nor your penetrating to the bowels of the
establishment. Room after room you pass, with swinging doors; each is
hotter than the last. In the last, and hottest room, the smell of man is
overpowering; you hastily retrace your steps through the series of
chambers and regain the comparative sweetness of the bazaars.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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